Guiberteau
Romain Guiberteau, vintage 1972, is the eighth generation of his family at this estate. But it was not immediately evident that he would pursue a career in wine. His father had already found a diffent calling. It was only after studying law that he learned the ropes at Clos Rougeard and then returned to work with his grandfather in 1996. Slender and a touch introverted, he answers questions—always on guard—in brief phrases. “Vouvray is flinty,” he explains. “Savennières warm and alcoholic. Saumur is all about chalk. We have only 30 centimeter of soil and then a bedrock of solid limestone.” Here, near Brézé, is the center of white wine production in Saumur. The red varieties are generally planted on deeper, sandier soils. Part of the Guiberteau style, though, is also a function of the barrel aging, with which he began experimenting in 1997. Today his single-vineyard chenin blancs spend 20 to 24 months in wood and, after blending, another six in stainless steel before bottling, “but they still need another three years in glass to digest their oak.” Most of the blocks for these chenins blancs are only about one hectare in size, so production volumes for these collectors’ items are always small, but even more so in the past two years. Quantities were down 60% in 2012 due to frost and hail. Two thousand thirteen was again off 40%. In sum, he has lost one vintage over the past three. “While the 2012s are richer and more immediately expressive,” he explains, “2013 will be a vintage to lay down.” What about the reds? “Sixty percent of our 15 hectares of vineyards are planted with cabernet franc.” Those will be featured in the next article. The whites below, though, all merit a detour.
From Focus on Loire Valley Chenin Blanc (Dec 2014) by Joel B. Payne
2012 Saumur Blanc
Release Price: $26
Color: White
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2011 Saumur Blanc Clos de Guichaux
Release Price: $35
Color: White
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2010 Saumur Blanc Brézé
Release Price: $54
Color: White
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2009 Saumur Blanc Clos des Carmes
Release Price: $57
Color: White
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