Giuseppe Rinaldi

Beppe Rinaldi's 2010 Barolos will go down as some of the most epic wines of this historic vintage. Today Barolo is generally thought of as a wine informed by an artisan spirit to viticulture and winemaking, which it is. But Barolo is also deeply rooted in nobility. Those two seemingly disparate worlds collide in this small cellar in the town of Barolo, where exquisite, captivating wines will bring readers to their knees. At their best, Rinaldi's Barolos speak to both the intellect and the heart, yet another of the contrasts that makes these wines so profound. This year, the wines have changed a bit. New regulations forbid the use of two vineyard names on a label. However, producers can bottle a single-vineyard Barolo with up to 15% juice from another site, which is idiotic beyond belief. So, this is what we have: Rinaldi's Barolo Brunate includes 15% juice from Le Coste. The remaining juice went into the former Cannubi/San Lorenzo-Ravera, which is now called Tre Tine (three vats). All that said, both wines are fabulous. I did my best to work through the inventory of 2010s at several local restaurants during the five weeks I spent in Piedmont this past summer. Alas, I did not succeed. For those worried about the next generation, Rinaldi daughters Marta and Carlotta are increasingly in charge. Marta Rinaldi is just as fiercely outspoken as her father, so there is every reason to believe the future is in very good hands.