G. H. von Mumm

The team at Schloss Johannisberg (whose current make-up is detailed in my concurrent report on that estate) is responsible for the wines of sister estate Mumm, which will henceforth be rendered and aged in Schloss Johannisberg’s renovated and expanded cellar. The Mumm holdings in Johannisberger Mittelhölle have been in part transferred with legislative approval to Schloss Johannisberg, representing essentially a northwesterly extension of the same hillside. Further Mumm Riesling vineyards have been swapped for holdings of other growers that are effectively part of the Schloss Johannisberg hillside and could be officially incorporated into that estate; been sold off; or been channeled into the pipeline for Sekt brand “Fürst Metternich,” leaving the Mumm estate with its prime Pinot Noir holdings in Assmannshausen effectively the red wine branch of Schloss Johannisberg. Those who have followed my coverage of Mumm (whose wines I have tasted regularly as a courtesy to Schloss Johannisberg) will know that Pinot Noir is the one sector of Mumm production in which I have detected a significant improvement in quality over the last half dozen years. The 2015 vintage Assmannshäuser Höllenberg was in bottle at the time of my November, 2018 visit, but director Stefan Doktor was not ready to show it. The estate’s two other vintage 2015 Pinots showed well, just as described in my previous report. So the only wine on which I am publishing a note here is a previously un-tasted cuvée from 2014. (For more about this estate and the lead-up to its recent fate, consult my introductions to previous accounts of its wines.)