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Fritz Salomon - Gut Oberstockstall

Like a few other central and northeastern Wagram growers, Fritz Salomon reports having experienced a nearly normal crop of largely healthy Grüner Veltliner, with his only drastic 2014 losses being in Chardonnay and Zweigelt. He bottled a portion of his intro-level “Patronatswein” in March, but when I returned for a second tasting session of 2014s in late September, the rest of them were still in tank or cask, and only a portion of those had yet received any sulfur or were destined for bottling ahead of the 2015 harvest. “My aim,” says Salomon, “is for the wines to be calm and at equilibrium [ruhig und ausgewogen] before bottling them,” and I concur in his judgment that his 2014s seemed in September to have eloquently and seductively achieved that goal. Improbably, like his colleagues at the combined Stadt Krems and Stift Göttweig, young Salomon looks set to have accomplished from 2014 what may be his most exciting and consistently fine collection yet. Given the company kept by this biodynamic wine grower temperamentally tempted toward minimalism, I wasn’t surprised to discover that he had begun experimenting with “orange wine,” but I was shocked by how deliciously promising his first two attempts at this were turning out.

From Austria 2014: A Catastrophe? Not Qualitatively! (Feb 2016) by David Schildknecht

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2014 Grüner Veltliner Patronatswein

Color: White

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