Elio Grasso

Tucked away off the main roads, Elio Grasso's estate is in one of the most peaceful, idyllic spots in the Langhe. For some reason this producer is not as well-known as some of his colleagues, yet in my conversations with other winemakers Grasso is always spoken of with the highest admiration and esteem. The estate's approach is based on rigorous attention to the vineyards, where low yields are the rule. From their fruit in the Gavarini and Ginestra crus in Monforte the estate makes a wide range of excellent wines in a unique style that marries elements of both traditional and modern styles. “I knew from the outset that it would be impossible to make my single-vineyard Barolos in 2002,” says Gianluca Grasso. “We did what we could to severely limit yields in the vineyards to allow the fruit to ripen as best as possible given the weather. We ended up with 30% of our typical annual production and the best fruit was combined to make a single Barolo, which was aged in a 25 hectoliter cask of neutral 15-year old Slavonian oak.” The decision to make a more modest Barolo in 2002 seems to have been a good decision as Grasso's wine shows excellent balance and proportion for the vintage. Unfortunately I was only able to taste one of the estate's 1999 Barolos.