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Edlmoser

Michael Edlmoser waxed enthusiastic about 2016 in his southwestern corner of Vienna: “A terrific vintage. Things managed not to get ripe too soon, so we didn’t have to start picking until early October” – which represents long-term normal but not the norm of the past decade. Not that Edlmoser is ready to leave things entirely up to nature. “In the future, we have to work to delay sugar accumulation so that the grapes hang for longer and we can wait to pick until the weather is more likely to be cool,” he noted, echoing sentiments nowadays internationally widespread. The consistent excellence of Edlmoser’s latest whites came as little surprise, but I was amazed at the quality of the reds from vintage 2015 that I tasted alongside. (Past encounters with Edlmoser reds had left me with decidedly mixed impressions, though my overall experience is quite limited, which is why my prognostications of ageability must be taken as quite speculative.) I seem to have missed the fact that Edlmoser worked for a time at Ridge Vineyards. “If it hadn’t been for the inspiration of Paul Draper, I might well never have adopted growing wine as my profession,” he remarked during our last meeting. Due to time constraints, I limited the Edlmoser 2016s I tasted to those that he had elected to show me, so what follows represents only around half of those offerings, which, inter alia, also include a generic Gemischter Satz and several relatively inexpensive cuvées. There is also now a skin-fermented Gemischter Satz dubbed “Qualtinger,” but I have yet to taste the inaugural, 2015 edition. (For details concerning this estate’s vineyards, practices and recent history, as well as the makeup of its various Gemischter Satz bottlings, I encourage readers to consult the extended introduction to my report on its 2013s.)

From 2016 Austrian Riesling & Grüner Veltliner (Oct 2018) by David Schildknecht

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2016 Grüner Veltliner Mauer

Color: White

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