Randy Dunn managed to get reasonable levels of ripeness in 1998 by dropping a full 45% of his fruit beginning in early August, "or else we would have been screwed." After fermenting his wines for seven or eight days, Dunn takes them off their skins immediately and allows them to settle in tank for a week or two, to eliminate the gross lees. The malolactic fermentations then finish in barrel, although Dunn maintains this "doesn't make a damn bit of difference." The selection for the Howell Mountain cuvee is not normally finalized until shortly before it bottled; in theory, says Dunn, it's an attempt to make a more structured, longer-lived wine. Dunn pointed out that in the early years, the Napa Valley bottling was entirely from Napa Valley fruit. But by '85 or '86, the valley floor component comprised only 25% of this wine; most of it consisted of Howell Mountain lots. "Sometimes you can only tell the difference between the Howell and Napa bottles by tasting the two wines side by side," Dunn explained. "And the two may diverge in style only after five years in the bottle." I have included approximate notes below on lots that Dunn said were earmarked for the Howell Mountain selection.
From Focus on California (May 2001) by Stephen Tanzer
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