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Domaine Vincent Dauvissat

While most of the Chablis growers I visit don't use their small oak barrels for more than ten years, which already is a lot longer than their colleagues on the Cote de Beaune do, Vincent Dauvissat has a cellar full of antiques. (The original section of his cellar dates back to the 16th century.) He showed me a barrel in its 52nd year (he has ancient feuillettes as well as futs), and I tasted a superb sample of his 2011 Les Preuses out of a 1981 barrel. "You can smell all the past crus and vintages in them," he told me, in a Raiders of the Lost Ark moment. These receptacles, of course, are as close to neutral as oak barrels can be. Dauvissat began picking on September 1 in 2011 and his finished wines will be in the low 12% to 12.5% alcohol range. He described acidity levels as "lowish" but did not chaptalize or acidify. "I prefer to let the terroir speak," he summarized. As usual, his wines will be among the stars of the vintage. (Vineyard Brands, www.vineyardbrands.com; wines bottled under the Dauvissat-Camus label are imported by Classic Wine Imports, www.classicwineimports.com)

From Chablis 2011 and 2010 (Jul 2012) by Stephen Tanzer

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2010 Petit Chablis

Release Price: $40

Color: White

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