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Domaine Patrick Javillier

Javillier told me the '97s were low in acidity, like the '98s, but finished with reasonably healthy pHs in the 3.25 to 3.3 range. The wines, he says, have decent aging potential. In contrast, adds Javillier, the '98s show more early fruit and perfume, and thus these wines seem more charming and immediate. They will, by and large, be best suited for consumption before the '97s. Javillier hastened to point out that the '97s he bottled late (in March of this year) were put in cement cuves after the '98 harvest rather than spending their last months in barrel. Still, because he kept a lot of the lees with the wines, there was some further exchange with air and, thus, further development of the wines prior to the later bottling. Javillier says he used lees stirring for the '98s (less at the beginning but more after the malolactic fermentations finished) to replace part of the structure that was lost as a result of the early September rainy period. Fans of white Burgundy bargains will not want to miss Javillier excellent, late-bottled 1997 Bourgogne Cuvee Oligocene Cuvee Speciale, which shows uncanny vinosity, texture and length for its appellation. (A Peter Vezan selection; importers include North Berkeley Imports, Berkeley, CA; Import!, Madison, WI; and The Wine Company, Minneapolis, MN; also imported by Langdon-Shiverick, Chagrin Falls, OH)

From 1998 and 1997 White Burgundies (Sep 1999) by Stephen Tanzer

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1997 Meursault Clos du Cromin

Color: White

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