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Domaine Patrick Javillier

Javillier has his own theory on why so many white Burgundies show premature oxidation. He believes that the most vulnerable wines are those that get too much debourbage and then are further cleaned up for early French tasters. "Those wines will show well for one or two years," he says, "but then the primary aromas disappear and the wines start to smell old." Javillier actually did a longer decanting of the must in 2004 than he had the previous year, as the quality of the lees was not as good (in 2003, the lees were a healthy yellow-green color). The lees he did keep allowed him to get more volume into his wines. The malos generally finished in March and April, and some wines had been sulfited by the time of my visit. In comparison to 2004, Javillier made extensive use of the lees in 2003 "to replace the missing acidity in the wines." He began by doing virtually no debourbage, then stirred the wines weekly until the malos started, to keep them fresh. He then bottled all of them in January 2005, rather than finishing a portion of his wines barely 12 months after the harvest, as he had done in previous years. "I broke all the rules of the enologists," he summarized. (A Peter Vezan selection; importers include North Berkeley Imports, Berkeley, CA; Vintner Select, Cincinnati, OH; and Arborway Imports, Lexington, MA; also imported by Langdon-Shiverick, Cleveland, OH and Martin-Scott Wines, Ltd., Lake Success, NY)

From 2004 and 2003 White Burgundies (Sep 2005) by Stephen Tanzer

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2003 Corton-Charlemagne Cuvee Speciale

Release Price: $162

Color: White

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