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Domaine Patrick Javillier

Javillier was slowly healing from a busted knee following a wipeout on ice on the sidewalk outside his cellar this winter. Like Jean-Marie Guffens, his brother in batonnage he was one of a minority of winemakers who felt that the use of the lees in 2003 was essential to making rich, balanced, complex wines. Those who did too much debourbage could easily get meager wines," he pointed out, describing those of his colleagues who let their musts settle for an extended period so that they could leave most of the lees behind. Javillier did almost no debourbage then did more lees stirring in 2003 than in any past vintage, stirring the wines every week. The lees were clean and of incredible quality," he told me. They're still giving richness to the wines. When you don't have much acidity, you need as much material as possible to replace the acids. And of course the lees also give the wines more complexity. "Javillier started picking fruit in Meursault Charmes, Puligny-Montrachet and Corton-Charlemagne on August 28, then attacked the rest of his vines on August 30. We only got real phenolic maturity by waiting," he explained. And we also benefited by picking under somewhat cooler conditions. " Javillier is convinced that the best 2003s will prove to be outstanding. (A Peter Vezan selection; importers include North Berkeley Imports, Berkeley CA Vintner Select, Cincinnati OH; and Arborway Imports, Lexington, MA; also imported by Langdon-Shiverick, Cleveland, OH and Martin-Scott Wines, Ltd. , Lake Success, NY)

From 2003 and 2002 White Burgundies (Sep 2004) by Stephen Tanzer

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2002 Corton-Charlemagne

Release Price: $145

Color: White

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