### Noël Verset Cornas 1985-2006

Noël Verset's wines need no introduction to hard-core fans of the wines of France's northern Rhône Valley, most of whom consider them icons of the region, along with those of Marius Gentaz-Dervieux and Raymond Trollat. As with those two producers, the domain no longer exists, with its vines sold off or passed on to family members from the late-1980s through the early 2000s, making any remaining bottles expensive rarities by now.

Born in 1919, Verset began working alongside his father in the family's Cornas vineyards and cellar at, incredibly, the age of 12, in 1931. He officially took over the domain in 1943 and began to slowly expand his production by renting as well as purchasing additional plots of vines when opportunities presented themselves and cash flow was expedient. Including the vineyards that he inherited, Verset eventually owned just over 2.5 hectares in the very best sites of the _appellation_: Reynard, Sabarotte and, especially, Chaillots.

Verset began to wind the domaine down starting in the late 1980s by selling his 0.9 hectare Reynard holding to the then 25 year old Thierry Allemand in 1988. Allemand, of course has gone on to become one of the most highly regarded winemakers not just in the Rhône Valley, but in the world. Verset's 1.2 hectare piece of Sabarotte, which were the first vines that he bought, in 1948, was sold in 2001 to the Clape and Courbis families. In 2006 he finally passed on his last parcel and crown jewel, a prized half-hectare of Chaillots, to his nephew Franck Balthazar, whose own immediate family already owned 1.5 hectares of that vineyard.

There never was much wine to go around and Verset's wines pretty much stayed under the radar until after he had retired. I happily recall being able to buy as much of his wine as I wanted for around $35 a bottle or so through the early 2000s, at which time fans of traditionally made northern Rhône wines began moving into panic and acquisition mode as more and more old-timers shuffled off the scene and the move toward bigger, riper wines and the use of small, often new oak barrels went into high gear.

I first met the incredibly charming and talkative Verset in July of 1989 and even by the standards of small domaines back then his operation hearkened to an older time. Cleanliness wasn't an issue in his tiny _chai_, which was right out his home's back door and across a narrow street but it definitely looked like nothing had changed since he first set up shop during World War II. Tasting at Verset felt like stepping back in time, especially next to the relatively spotless facilities of the larger _négociants_ of the region.

Verset stuck to traditional winemaking methods throughout his career, never de-stemming his fruit and using a small, traditional basket press before moving the juice into small concrete fermentation vats and then into old 600 liter _demi-muids_ for aging. Bottling was done by hand and with no filtration, as one would expect. These are in no way the stereotypical brawny, overtly tannic and _sauvage_ type of wine that many incorrectly judge to be "typical" Cornas. Far from it in fact, as Verset's wines were always about red fruit, aromatic complexity and minerality. It's not easy to find wines from the northern Rhône that display the finesse the Verset succeeded in expressing, but a few younger producers have taken inspiration from him and are making wines in the same vein - Allemand and Balthazar, unsurprisingly, come to mind, as do the Gonon brothers in Saint-Joseph. This tasting/dinner at Bar Boulud, hosted by the Rare Wine Co., provided a rare a opportunity to survey the arc of Verset's work back to 1985.

![](https://allgrapes.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads%2F1422377953245-verset-dinner-bar-boulud.JPG)

_Preparations at Bar Boulud_

The **2006 Cornas** , which Verset made when he was 87, is also his last vintage. It displays delicate, mineral-laced raspberry and floral scents, with suggestions of woodsmoke, camphor and black pepper in the background. It actually smells a lot like an elegant Côte-Rotie, which is fairly common with Verset’s wines. Sappy and fine-grained on the palate, with uncommon finesse and red fruit character for a Cornas, it possesses a seamless texture and a palate-numbing jolt of cracked pepper on the back half. Showing very good clarity on the finish, its gentle tannins come up slowly. A classic example of the elegant Verset style, this wine is a fitting swan song for his brilliant career. **93** /Drinking window: 2016-2024.

The **2005 Cornas** is an excellent example from a great, age-worthy vintage that’s still developing at a snail’s pace. In fact, many producers in the region wonder of they’ll even still be around when the wines fully come into maturity. The wine’s musky, deeply pitched cherry pit and black raspberry aromas are complicated by hints of bacon fat and violet. It brightens up with air and offers sweet cherry compote and red berry liqueur flavors, with an undercurrent of smoky minerals that adds lift and spine. Supple tannins frame an extremely long, sweet and mineral-accented finish, which leaves notes of raspberry and candied flowers behind. This plush, deeply concentrated and fruit-driven wine is built for the long haul, but I wouldn't fault anyone for opening and drinking it now, especially if I were there. **94** /Drinking window: 2020-2030.

From a vintage that never attracted much attention from collectors thanks to the market’s obsession with the outstanding 2005s, Verset’s **2004 Cornas** is a prime example of what a great winemaker can accomplish in a challenging vintage. Its vivid ruby color belies its age, as do the fresh raspberry and plum aromas, which are complicated by notes of woodsmoke, violet pastille and allspice. Showing more acidity and raciness relative to the 2005, is possesses silky texture and sweet red fruit flavors and a late touch of spicecake. Gentle tannins and an echo of red berries define the long, focused finish. Very nicely balanced, the ‘04 is a classic example of the Verset style. **92** /Drinking window: 2015-2024.

The **2003 Cornas** is a surprisingly elegant wine for such a ripe vintage. Indeed, '03 produced many wines that have already begun to fall apart due to excessive alcohol levels and over-ripe fruit character. Not this one. It's quite ripe, admittedly, with deeply pitched dark berry and cherry pit aromas and flavors thate show the warmth of the vintage without coming off stewy. Notes of woodsmoke, black olive, pipe tobacco and floral oils come up with air, along with a hint of bacon fat. This is like a Cliff's Notes description of syrah, actually. It becomes livelier and fresher as the wine opens up, showing cherry compote and blackberry qualities on an extremely long, surprisingly tannic (for its age) finish. Definitely in the dark fruit spectrum, as Verset's wines go, but it still displays the domain's trademark finesse. **93** /Drinking window: 2015-2032.

By universal acclaim the rain-plagued 2002 vintage is regarded as the weakest of the 2000s in the entire Rhône Valley, if not the worst in a generation. You wouldn't guess that if you tried a bottle of the **2002 Cornas** from Verset, which displays a highly floral, red fruit-dominated bouquet, with suggestions of peppery spices and fresh herbs. It possesses pinot-like weight and texture as well as flavor, offering gently sweet raspberry and cherry on the palate. The finish tails off a bit (not surprising for an '02) but this is an extremely pretty and balanced Cornas, with no obvious tannins and a refreshing touch of spiciness lingering. Drink up, to be on the safe side. **90** /Drinking window: 2015-2020.

Many northern Rhône producers consider 2001 to be a classic and Verset's **2001 Cornas** makes a strong case for that assertion. Offering smoky blackberry and cherry aromas, its complicated by suggestions of violet, olive paste, black pepper, bacon fat and candied licorice that emerge slowly. Broad and sweet on entry, then firmer on the mid-palate, the wine offers sappy black raspberry and bitter chocolate flavors and a sexy floral pastille flourish on the back half. The floral quality carries through a strikingly long, surprisingly tannic finish, which echoes the berry note. This outstanding wine is aging on a long, graceful arc and should easily cruise along for another couple of decades. **94** /Drinking window: 2017-2035.

The **2000 Cornas** is and an expressive and seductively perfumed wine that displays intense red fruit preserve, potpourri and Indian spice scents and a hint of botanical herbs. Sweet and seamless in texture, it possesses spicy raspberry and floral pastille flavors that put on weight with air. Surprisingly dense for the vintage, which was never known for power and depth, it finishes with surprising thrust, silky tannins and lingering smokiness. This is in no danger of heading toward decrepitude. **92** /Drinking window: 2016-2025.

From an outstanding northern Rhône vintage, Verset's **1999 Cornas** is still youthfully fruity and floral on the nose, offering aromas of fresh red berries, candied flowers and peppery spices, with a smoky mineral nuance slowly emerging. Juicy black raspberry and cola flavors expand in the mouth and pick up hints of cola and licorice, along with a touch of succulent herbs. Bitter chocolate and fruitcake notes emerge on the finish, which features dusty tannins and a jolt of juicy acidity. I'd hold onto this one for a while as it drinks like a much younger wine now and holds excellent promise. **94** /Drinking window: 2018-2030.

Verset's **1998 Cornas** displays complex redcurrant, cherry pit, violet and spicecake scents, with deeper olive and licorice nuances sneaking up as the wine opens. Lively and sharply focused, it offers spicy red fruit and floral flavors that are underscored by building minerality. It's bright, focused and spicy on the finish, which echoes the floral and spice notes. Anybody who thinks that Cornas can't be elegant really owes it to themselves to try this wine, if they can get their hands on a bottle at this point. **93** /Drinking window: 2016-2023.

From another overlooked and often undervalued vintage, the **1997 Cornas** shows a surprisingly youthful color, with smoky cherry and raspberry scents and notes of black olive, cracked pepper and pipe tobacco. Spicy, focused and light on its feet, it has silky, vaguely pinot-like texture and very good clarity to its sweet red fruit and spicecake flavors. It finishes bright and nervy, with no obvious tannins and lingering florality. While fully mature I wouldn't be at all surprised to find this wine drinking well ten years from now. **90** /Drinking window: 2015-2023.

The **1996 Cornas** Displays dried cherry and redcurrant aromas and flavors, with hints of musky herbs, violet and smoky minerals coming up with air. Dry and taut, with peppery spice and floral qualities sneaking in on the finish, this is no doubt on lean side, with good clarity but only modest depth and flavor intensity. It closes tight and smoky, with gentle tannic grip and a slightly vegetal touch of rhubarb lingering. This vintage _chez_ Verset has always shown these qualities to me, going back to when it was first released. It's not dying so much as it didn't have a lot to begin with. **87** /Drinking window: 2015-2018.

One of the best wines that I've ever drunk from Verset, the **1995 Cornas** behaves like it's over a decade younger, with an explosively perfumed bouquet that evokes ripe red and dark fruits, incense, potpourri and blood orange, with a smoky mineral quality building in the glass. It stains the palate with intense black raspberry, spicecake and violet pastille flavors that put on weight and gain sweetness on the back half while maintaining vibrancy. Densely packed yet lively, even lithe, the wine finishes sweet and extremely long, with slow-building tannins and resonating florality. This was a superb showing for this wine, which has long been a personal favorite of mine. **95** /Drinking window: 2016-2030.

The **1994 Cornas** displays musky redcurrant and dried cherry qualities on the pungent, smoke- and spice-accented nose and in the mouth. Lively and a bit tightly wound, it slowly picks up floral and botanical herb flourishes with aeration. While lacking the flesh to be considered outstanding, which is typical for this rain-plagued vintage, it's still very easy to drink, with good finishing cut, gentle tannins and an echo of candied flowers lingering. **89** /Drinking window: 2015-2020.

From a vintage that continues to impress, Verset's **1991 Cornas** is youthfully bright and ruby-red in color, with lively cherry pit, redcurrant, floral pastille and rhubarb aromas that are complicated by notes of olive and cracked pepper. The wine puts on weight and takes a darker turn with air, picking up notes of mulberry and bitter chocolate. Smooth, sweet and smoky on the finish, with only a trace of gentle tannins that sneak in late and add gentle grip. It's fully mature but I suspect that there's at least another decade of pleasurable drinking ahead here. **92** /Drinking window: 2015-2025.

![](https://allgrapes.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads%2F1422377890395-verset-cornas-dinner-bar-boulud.JPG)

_A flight from the 1990s_

At the time of its release I thought that Verset's **1990 Cornas** was one of the best wines of the vintage in the northern Rhône and definitely the best example of Cornas for that year. Still deep ruby in color, it displays powerful aromas of cherry liqueur, blackberry and olive, with a minty aspect adding vivacity and lift. Round and seamless in texture, with sappy red and dark berry flavors and hints of spicecake and cola, this is aging very slowly and positively. A hint of fresh mint sneaks up with air, adding good back end bite to a long, supple finish. In an ample, plush style for Verset, you could drink this with great pleasure now or forget it for at least another ten years. **94** /Drinking window: 2015-2025.

I actually find the **1989 Cornas** to be a shade better than the '90 right now, but at this stage, 25 years out, we're well into the bottle variation stage of wines' evolution so I could take a different view on any given day. The wine displays highly complex bouquet that evokes raspberry liqueur, incense, potpourri and smoky bacon, with a powerful Asian spice nuance adding lift. It offers palate-staining red fruit and floral pastille flavors, along with suggestions of licorice, olive and fruitcake. Weighty but vibrant, it finishes sweet, seamless and extremely long, with a deft interplay of richness and tension. I suspect that the Cornas will age for at least as long as its 1990 sibling and probably longer but there's plenty of pleasure to be had from it now. **95** /Drinking window: 2015-2030.

Verset's **1988 Cornas** , from a vintage that I've always loved, is a textbook example of the elegance of the best wines of the year. Displaying sexy, spice-tinged raspberry and floral scents that show pinot-like clarity and lift, it picks up a smoky quality with air, along with a hint of cured tobacco. Smooth, seamless and focused in the mouth, with juicy red fruit and spicecake flavors, it shows a delicate touch that's rare for Cornas. Quite elegant, with fully absorbed tannins and a long, fresh, fruit-driven finish that belies its age. This graceful wine has been delicious since I first tasted it from barrel with Verset in 1989 - I wouldn't be at all surprised if was still drinking well another decade from now. **94** /Drinking window: 2015-2025.

The **1987 Cornas** is ready to drink and while I suspect that well-stored bottles with be drinking just fine over the coming years I'd hedge my bets and be drinking it now, or not long from now. Showing smoky red fruit, pipe tobacco and violet on the pungent nose, a hint of black pepper adds lift and spiciness. Juicy cherry and black raspberry flavors show a touch of gaminess and pick up a hint of olive with air. Chewy tannins give grip to the finish, which clings with good tenacity and echoing smokiness. **90** /Drinking window: 2015-2018.

I was very pleasantly surprised by how well the **1986 Cornas** has turned out. Displaying high-pitched redcurrant, cherry skin and black pepper aromas, it's complicated by notes of dried flowers and allspice that build in the glass. Silky and fine-grained on the palate, with sweet red fruit flavors and a suggestion of blood orange that lends a refreshingly tangy edge, it acts like a much younger wine. It shows deeper, darker character on the finish, which features gentle tannins and a sexy floral pastille flourish. This vintage was written off by most Rhône wine lovers from the beginning, by the way, making this showing all the more impressive. **92** /Drinking window: 2015-2022.

If you're lucky enough to get your hands on a bottle of the Verset **1985 Cornas** , and can afford the tariff, absolutely do not miss it. The wine displays powerful aromas of dried cherries, pungent flowers, cured tobacco and underbrush, with a hint of raw beef in the background - it really smells a lot like a mature, traditionally made, high-class Burgundy to me. Silky and alluringly sweet, it shows intense, palate-coating raspberry and cherry compote flavors that are lifted and sharpened by gentle acidity and a peppery nuance. The floral quality comes back strong on the tannin-free finish, which hangs on with outstanding tenacity and focus. It's fully mature, no question, but I'd continue to hold onto my bottles of this wine, if I were lucky enough to have any, for at least another ten years, with full confidence. **95** /Drinking window: 2015-2025.

_Photos_ _©Rare Wine Co._

--Josh Raynolds



Noël Verset Cornas 1985-2006

Noël Verset Cornas 1985-2006 (Jan 2015)

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