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Domaine Méo-Camuzet

“In the 2023 vintage, the winter was quite mild,” winemaker María Ignacia Navarro González, thankfully, more commonly known as just “Nacha” tells me. “At the beginning of spring, there was a bit of rain. Clos Vougeot and Richebourg were the first to flower in the first week of June, ending around June 6 or 7. The weather was particularly good during flowering. Then, there was a little rain at the end of the month. We were able to control the downy mildew. We were more worried about powdery, but it was OK in the end. Green harvest was our big work—three full weeks in July, leaving around eight, sometimes nine bunches per vine, depending on the size. You could have had almost double in some vines if you had not done a green harvest. August was very warm, especially when there was a heatwave on August 15, when we started doing the maturity control. We started noticing some shriveling in some vineyards. There was a little rain at the end of the month.”

She continues, “We started picking on September 5, and we thought we would do it at a leisurely place. But it was non-stop! We started with Corton-Rognet as usual, because the sugar was increasing fast. The sorting was especially important as there was a little acid rot. Yields were mostly 35 to 40 hl/ha, maximum 45 hl/ha. We adapted the vinification, conducting a four-day cold soak and, if I smelled a little activity of fermentation, I stopped the cold soak. During the cold soak we did one pumpover. A major factor was to finish the alcoholic fermentation without sugar, so we did this at a lower temperature compared to usual. We did less pigeage, three or a maximum of four per tank, then pressed before barreling down. In some appellations we did some bleeding, for example, Les Chaumes and Clos Vougeot. The malo was normal with Corton-Perrières, one plot in Les Chaumes and Marsannay that did not finish until July. All the reds are destemmed except some in the Corton-Perrières with approximately the same percentage of new oak. We did some racking in July. We had a lot of lees in the barrel, but we did not have a lot of reduction.”

From The Lord Giveth…Burgundy 2023 (Jan 2025) by Neal Martin

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2023 Hautes-Côtes de Nuits Blanc Clos St. Philibert

Color: White

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