The rising attention being given to the Brézème appellation, in the far southern reaches of the northern Rhône, on its east bank and about 20 kilometers south of Valence, is due in no small part to the hard work and promotion of the region by the highly talented Julien Montagnon. These hitherto unknown, steeply sloped, limestone-based and mostly west-facing vineyards actually have a rich history, and even designations, that go back centuries, and Montagnon has the ancient maps to prove it. I’ve had the opportunity to follow his wines for the last five years, and fans of elegant, energetic, low-octane Syrah are strongly advised to follow suit. It was hot here in 2018 and 2017, as was the case everywhere across the Rhône Valley, and Montagnon said that it was “a challenge to make typical wines,” by which he means ones that clock in at 12.5% to 13% alcohol. Nonetheless, Montagnon persevered, and on my visit in March he offered up a highly impressive lineup of wines that consistently showed both power and energy. I rarely see these wines outside France, but they’re more than worth hunting down.
From Power and Energy: The 2018 and 2017 Northern Rhônes (Apr 2020) by Josh Raynolds
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