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Domaine Lamy-Caillat

“I won’t keep bad memories from the season,” quietly spoken winemaker Sébastien Caillat tells me at his cozy cellar as he reaches for the first wine, though I suspect he is referring more to the challenges of 2024 rather than 2023. “As time goes by, we have more experience working organically. You have to be reactive and careful. I see the good and the bad points [of organic viticulture], but one of the good points is that if you compare it to conventional treatments, you need to anticipate each spraying and so you are obliged to follow the vines’ growth. So, the results are better, especially against oidium. With conventional sprays you can wait 14 or even 21 days [the implication being that you are not obliged to spend as much time observing and tending your vines].”

“The season was quite warm, again. It was the hottest ever, but it was wetter than 2020 or 2022. We were lucky that the last weeks were warm and dry because with such a large volume, high temperatures helped maturity but without the resulting high sugar levels like in 2019. The 2023s are between 12% and 13.5% with slightly higher pH, 3.30 to 3.40. I started picking on August 31 and it was a long harvest that finished on September 11, just before 40 mm of rain the following day. Acidity levels were declining very quickly during the harvest. Fortunately, we had a good team with good spirit. This was important because it was hard to work in the vines, starting early in the morning, keeping the pickers hydrated. I am curious about the density of the wines. I like to work with the solids. I made two rackings like people did in the old days, and this makes the reduction change week by week – but I’m trying to avoid fixed reduction.”

From The Lord Giveth…Burgundy 2023 (Jan 2025) by Neal Martin

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2023 Bourgogne Les Grand Corvées

Color: White

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