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Domaine Jean-Yves Devevey

I know the landscape of Burgundy pretty well. I don’t need a map, even when venturing into its nether reaches. Yet, when I punched “Demigny” into the Satnav I had never heard of the village. It turned out that Demigny is not far off the beaten track in the direction of Chassagne, but sufficiently far from the central artery that connects the Côte d’Or that you would never go there - unless visiting Jean-Yves Devevey. And, his wines are worth the detour. It was the first time that I had met him, a quiet and straightforward man who has built his Domaine from almost nothing to its present 6.32 hectares. “I started in 1992, but back then I farmed none of the appellations that I do currently,” he explained in his basement barrel cellar. “I took over a parcel in Volnay in 2007 but the 40-year-old vines had a lot of virus that took 10 years to cure. It tends to produce small bunches and small berries. I have used 100% whole bunches since 2015. Maybe it makes the wines a little rustic, but it lends them generosity.” In 2019 Devevey commenced his picking relatively late to other growers on 18 September and put down the clippers on 24 September. Despite this he told me that he prefers to pick earlier than later! With nary a Premier Cru to his name,, Devevey evidently exploits his holdings to their full potential, enhancing his wines with meticulous organic vineyard husbandry and careful winemaking practices, such as moderating the new oak to between 10% and 30% maximum. These wines might not challenge the best Chardonnay or Pinot Noir you will ever drink, yet they are respectful towards their terroirs, pure and fresh. In other words, wines with personality. Plus, the use of whole bunches imparts a je ne sais quoi. Devevey’s Volnay Village has been worth the trouble and strife, as good as you will find at that level, whilst his Rully La Chaume Blanc has an appealing tanginess.

From La Lumière Noire: 2019 Burgundy - Côte de Beaune (Dec 2020) by Neal Martin

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2019 Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes de Beaune Rouge

Color: Red

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