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Domaine Jean Collet et Fils

I hadn't visited this family domain for at least 15 years but was motivated to taste the wines again when I heard about recent improvements here from more than one Chablis insider. Romain Collet, the son of Gilles, began here in 2008 and has made numerous changes for the better. Perhaps most important, he started vinifying with wild yeasts in 2010, and since 2012 all of the Chablis here are made with levures indigenes. This has brought the wines more density and complexity. He did some lees stirring in 2010 and 2008 but very little in 2013 or 2012. "It depends on the richness of the vintage," he explained. "There's no rule."Collet has also increased the percentage of the family's vineyards that are farmed organically, focusing on their Clos and Valmur and much of their premier cru land. And he has moved in the direction of earlier picking, noting that he does not like surmaturite. In 2013, Collet began on September 26, and finished on October 7, the Monday after the rainy weekend that radically affected the fruit remaining on the vines. Collet describes 2013 as "a fruity vintage that will be pleasant young." Two thousand twelve, on the other hand, is a great vintage, according to Collet, with the average production levels slightly lower than those of 2013 (45 hectoliters per hectare vs. 48). "The 2012s are plush now and have a lot of potential," he told me. "It's my best vintage yet." Collet uses a bit of oak to age his Vaillons, Montee de Tonnerre, Valmur and Clos, including about 10% new.

From Chablis 2013 and 2012 (Jul 2014) by Stephen Tanzer

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2013 Chablis

Color: White

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