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Domaine Jean Chauvenet

Sugar levels in 1997 ranged from 11.5% to 12.9%, said Christophe Drag, the highest he has ever seen. Cold macerations lasted just two or three days due to warm ambient conditions at the harvest, and the cuvaison was a bit shorter than usual because there were lots of yeasts on the grapes and because the grapes gave up their juice slowly (i.e., there wasn't enough juice to recool the musts). But the domain benefitted from leisurely malos (ending as late as August for the Vaucrains) and decent acidity for the vintage. The '97s were racked before the '98 harvest, and Drag expected to bottle the crus as late as April or even May. They have taken on color and structure in barrel, and are not getting dry, says Drag. It a vintage without a lot of tannins and polyphenols. The '96s, in comparison, are more complex and homogeneous, says Drag. They are both more fleshy and more structured than his '95s, which are now awkward and tannic. But '96 is not better than '90, mostly because of the high crop level in '96, Drag notes. Among the most important improvements that have taken place here in recent years is a move to much less handling and clarification of the wine. "Prior to 1994, we did five rackings," Drag explains. "Now there are only two, and the wines spend longer on their lees."

From 1997 and 1996 Red Burgundies (Mar 1999) by Stephen Tanzer

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1996 Nuits-Saint-Georges

Color: Red

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