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Domaine J-F Mugnier

Just when you think you have a good grasp on a particular vintage, or on how it should have been handled by winemakers, it's time for a visit to Freddy Mugnier, who can be counted on to take a contrarian approach. Mugnier harvested early in 2004, beginning the day before the ban and carrying out little in the way of triage, except in his hailed-on parcels in Amoureuses and Bonnes-Mares. "The grapes were evenly ripe and perfectly healthy, with the highest sugars ever at this estate," he told me. The malos here were no later than usual (ending between March and July of 2005), and the wines had been racked a couple weeks before my visit. "I make every wine in the cellar exactly the same way, regardless of the vintage," Mugnier told me. "I have come to this approach progressively over time. I realized in 2003 that it was better not to change much about a vintage. The few things I changed in 2003 I regret having changed, even though the grapes were so unusual. It's better to trust the balance of nature than to attempt to compensate for what you think is missing. "

From 2004 and 2003 Red Burgundies (Mar 2006) by Stephen Tanzer

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2003 Chambolle-Musigny

Release Price: $72

Color: Red

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