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Domaine Humbert Frères

Emmanuel Humbert has a very precise idea of where his family domain fits in the Gevrey-Chambertin hierarchy, and he is very aware of who is doing the best work in the village. He told me that he and his brother Frederic taste regularly with the Dugats (they are distant cousins). "We love those wines," he said, but then made it clear that he would like the family domain to be considered in the next group of Gevreys, right behind the top tier. In fact, the Humbert wines have steadily improved in recent years and are now quite fine, especially as the Humberts have become more flexible with extraction in the past few vintages. "In vintage 2002, we did three punchdowns per day, or about 30 in total," noted Humbert, "while in 2004 we did a total of 5, relying more on pumpovers. "The 2004s here are quite promising, and the top 2003s are highly successful. The latter wines appear to have taken on more structure during their final months in barrel. All of these wines are aged in 100% new barrels. Since '98, the Humberts have used only oak from the Chatillonais, a forest on the northern edge of the Burgundy region. "Gevrey-Chambertin wines already have finesse, so we don't need Alliers oak," explained Emmanuel. "Oak from the Chatillonais gives structure without bringing the hardness of Vosges. "(Michael Stephens/Vins Divins, Beaune, France; importers include Fruit of the Vine, New York, NY and Ideal Wines, Medford, MA)

From 2004 and 2003 Red Burgundies (Mar 2006) by Stephen Tanzer

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2003 Gevrey-Chambertin Petite Chapelle

Color: Red

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