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Domaine Guillemot-Michel

Up in the tiny village of Quintaine, I visited Domaine Guillemot-Michel. This estate comes from the maternal side of the family when Pierrette Michel started working with her parents in 1982. Together with her husband, Marc Guillemot, they bottled their first vintage three years later. One of the forerunners of biodynamics, they began applying Steiner’s tenets with the 1991 vintage. In 2012, Guillemot’s daughter, Sophie, and her husband, Gautier Roussille, who welcomed me, joined the estate.

“We started picking for the still wines from September 5, with one press per day, a little slower than usual, and finished on September 20,” Roussille tells me. “Two weeks is pretty standard. We use 25 to 60m/L of SO2. I see the 2022 vintage as a bit like 2018, fruit-forward, but there is 1% less alcohol. In 2023, yields are quite similar. We have old vines, so it slows things down.”

These wines are well worth seeking out. I particularly liked their 2022 Viré-Clessé “Charleston,” which brims with vibrant yellow fruit, though their “Retour à la Terre” cuvée, which sees 11 months in terracotta jar, displays wonderful purity.

From Mâconnais 2022/2023: Don’t Pass Me By (Aug 2024) by Neal Martin

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2023 Viré-Clessé Quintaine

Color: White

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