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Domaine Gérard Mugneret

Pascal Mugneret has quietly and diligently become one of Vosne-Romanée’s most respected producers. Mugneret does not receive the adulation of its elite growers He is comfortable being just out of the spotlight, content to simply create quality wines that have won him a loyal audience of followers in recent years. He began by admitting that in hindsight, the 2023 vintage was harder than he believed at the time.

“It was quite hot and humid in 2023 with a lot of water in June and July, 100mm each month,” he tells me, in what was surely the coldest cellar I encountered as the air conditioning moderated warm exterior temperatures. He continues, “I started the picking on September 4 and picked over six days. I used quite a lot of whole bunches in 2023, but I was restricted by space in the vats [given the larger volume]. We had never cut the grapes in such hot temperatures, and we stopped at 1pm each day. There was acid rot and so we asked pickers to regularly smell the baskets and another person checked again on the sorting table. Here, we do not regulate temperatures during fermentation. We fill the vat with the intention of starting the fermentation the following day, therefore we check the juice is around 22° to 25°C so that the sugars are gently consumed right from the start.”

Being one of the more candid winemakers, I asked for his perspective on the 2023s. “It’s a good surprise,” he replies. “There’s good freshness and balance between texture and structure. It is quite an ‘accurate’ vintage…there is sweetness, but not too much. Maybe, it is not the vintage of the century, but consumers can open the 2023s early if they want, which was not the case for 2020 or 2022.”

Like many producers’ ranges, I would not describe Mugneret’s 2023s as consistent across the board. Occasionally I feel that the whole bunches occluded the terroir profiles, for example, the Nuits Saint-Georges Les Richemones that contains 100%. Contrast that with potentially one of the finest Echézeaux of the vintage—I could not tell there was a single stem when there is actually 80%. Given the sensible market prices, these wines are highly recommended. They intrigue and delight the senses without forcing you to remortgage the house.

From The Lord Giveth…Burgundy 2023 (Jan 2025) by Neal Martin

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