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Domaine Dureuil-Janthial

An early morning visit to the drizzly Côte Chalonnaise was brightened by the talented Vincent Dureuil, by consensus, Rully’s foremost winemaker. He is that rare example of a refreshingly self-effacing vigneron, somebody that lets his wines do the talking. “It was an easy vintage as there was no mildew and oidium,” he tells me (accompanied by his daughter, who will be training at a winery in New Zealand next year). “We had a lot of rain in March that made it difficult to mow the soil, and we had to use a trimmer to cut the grass. After July 20, we had some rain, and we had to cut the cover crops again. The alcoholic degree of the whites rose very quickly so that within a week, it could go from 11.5% to 14.0%. We began the picking on September 11 and finished September 21,” Dureuil adds.

“I begin picking later than some other growers. My father always said in great vintages like 1947 and 1959, they picked at 13.5% or 14.0%. I want sugar [in the fruit] rather than acidity. You have more [natural] acidity in organic viticulture.” Compare this to, say, Alvina Pernot in Puligny or Pierre-Yves Colin in Chassagne-Montrachet, who adopted the opposite strategy. Dureuil continues, “It was hot during the harvest, so it was challenging keeping the fruit cool at reception, otherwise the fermentation can spin out of control. It was the hottest that I can remember. So, we press the bunches, transfer the juice into refrigerated units and then transfer directly into barrel. It was a slow fermentation, sometimes finishing after the malo the following June or July. Except for the Aligoté, all the white cuvées see 20% new oak, and 30% for the reds. The whites have a little more acidity and concentration in 2022, while the 2023s are more like 2015. But it is a young vintage, and you need another six months to really tell.”

This was a wonderful set of 2023s. On occasion, they were just a step behind their 2022 counterparts, but it is difficult to think of another producer that offers such value for the money. Ergo, these are go-to wines for this writer on many occasions. Like many, Dureuil’s talent lies more in the whites than reds, though his Pinots are certainly not to be sniffed at.

From The Lord Giveth…Burgundy 2023 (Jan 2025) by Neal Martin

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2023 Bourgogne Aligoté

Color: White

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Domaine Dureuil-Janthial

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