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Domaine des Comtes Lafon

Dominique Lafon quoted the old saw, “Early harvest, pick early; late harvest, pick late,” noting that when the fruit ripens at the end of August everything is speeded up because there’s an hour more of light then there would be barely three weeks later. In fact, he noted that in his Oregon ventures, he typically harvests at a relatively low 22 to 22.5 degrees Brix. “Most growers pick with their fruit two degrees higher, with more shriveled grapes,” he told me. “But with 14% alcohol and pruney flavors, there’s less fluidity in those wines.”

In fact, in a couple recent vintages at Domaine Lafon, I’ve found some very ripe, thick Volnays that verge on extreme, but not in 2015 or 2014. In 2015, Lafon started harvesting his Pinot Noir vines on August 31. He worked with a high percentage of whole berries and carried out a very light extraction—just three punchdowns per cuvée. The malos finished in February and March—which Lafon described as “early for us”—and pHs are healthy at 3.35 to 3.4. The wines had been sulfured but were still on their lees, unracked, in mid-November.

From The 2015 Red Burgundies: You Are So Going To Want Them (Jan 2017) by Stephen Tanzer

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2015 Monthélie-Les Duresses 1er Cru

Color: Red

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2015 Volnay Clos des Chènes 1er Cru

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2015 Volnay Champans 1er Cru

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2015 Volnay Santenots-du-Milieu 1er Cru

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Domaine des Comtes Lafon

2015 Monthélie-Les Duresses 1er Cru

2015 Volnay Clos des Chènes 1er Cru

2015 Volnay Champans 1er Cru

2015 Volnay Santenots-du-Milieu 1er Cru

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