You know that you’re on to a good thing when a winery’s entry level wine becomes one of your house pours. Noblaie’s Temps de Cerises is one of my mid-week regulars for its ripe, juicy interpretation of Cabernet Franc. Jérôme Billard is now the fourth generation to run Domaine de la Noblaie, joining his family in 2003 after working at Sacred Hill in New Zealand, Dominus in Napa and Château Petrus. Since Billard's homecoming, the vineyard has more than doubled in size, has achieved organic certification and the estate has developed single-vineyard bottlings, such as the brooding Pierre de Tuf, from his oldest vines. The wines are always succulent, and there’s growing refinement when it comes to extraction. The domaine also has some of the oldest Chenin Blanc vines in Chinon, including La Part des Anges, which is matured on lees for a lengthy 20 months in 500-liter barrels, giving weight, texture and added aromatic complexity, but it is the reds that currently shine more brightly. Domaine de la Noblaie is now a fixture in the premier league of Chinon producers.
From Chenin Blanc: Wait a Sec (Sep 2022) by Rebecca Gibb MW
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