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Domaine de la Folie

Readers should refer to my “Burgundy Under the Radar” article from 2018 for background information on this superb Rully producer, owned since 2010 by Clémence and Baptiste Dubrulle. Fortunately this time I met Baptiste Dubrulle without any debilitating foot injury since during my previous visit I found him hobbling on crutches. Their winery atop the Montagne de la Folie has a splendid panorama over the Côte de Beaune. The Dubrulles’ infectious enthusiasm and joie-de-vivre was intact. I focused on the 2019 vintage in their tasting room that lays above the barrel cellar and doubles as a small museum detailing Domaine de la Folie’s history. “Our north to northeast-orientated vines gave us an advantage,” Clémence Dubrulle opined with reference to the warm summers in recent years. “We waited a little bit and started picking on 10 September. It was a dry and hot growing season, but the concentration focused on both the sugar and acidity, so we had a very nice balance. Production was low due to the small amount of juice. The Pinot Noir was fully ripe and the extraction very easy, whilst the Chardonnay kept its freshness. The yield was around 60% of a normal production. Alcohol levels are around 13.5° on the whites and reds, a degree less for the Aligoté. It’s hard to say whether 2019 is better than 2018, but I think the 2019s will have a very nice evolution in bottle.” These are splendid, intermittently brilliant wines that punch well above their weight. Classically styled, their whites seem to emit a bit of sunshine, even on an overcast October afternoon. And that Rully Clos Saint-Jacques is an absolute stunner that begs to be partnered with its Gevrey namesake.

From La Lumière Noire: 2019 Burgundy - Côte de Beaune (Dec 2020) by Neal Martin

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2019 Bourgogne Aligoté

Release Price: $27

Color: White

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