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Domaine Chandon des Briailles

Claude de Nicolay, co-proprietor at Domaine Chandon des Briailles, met me at the Savigny-based winery where bottling was busy going on outside.

“There was such a big heatwave during the harvest that we started picking in the last two days of August for the whites and September 3 for the reds,” she tells me. “The fruit was starting to shrivel, but it was too hot for the team to pick in the afternoon. Otherwise, we could use skimmed milk to treat oidium, carefully spraying every week, so mildew was not such a big issue for us. The crop was large so it took longer to ripen. Some bunches were still closed in early September, so we had to go little by little until the heatwave [at which point it was all hands on deck]. It is a ripe style of wine, but the whole bunch plus gentle maceration, more infusion than extraction, has been positive for the balance. The cuvées are all 100% whole bunch and mature in 15% new oak.”

Be advised that with just 10% of an average crop in 2024, there won’t be much around next year.

From The Lord Giveth…Burgundy 2023 (Jan 2025) by Neal Martin

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