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Domaine Benoît Moreau

Since splitting with his brother, Alex, at Domaine Bernard Moreau, Benoît Moreau has become a reluctant superstar, secondary market prices sadly out-pricing many who would appreciate his wines. This year there is no Chassagne-Montrachet Champ-Gain or Corton-Charlemagne, Moreau adamantly refusing to pay inflated prices for fruit.

“The vines were less stressed than in 2022 as there was rain at the right moments, just when the vines became stressed,” he explains. “We did a green harvest for the Pinot Noir. It was difficult to decide the date of the vintage as it became warm. We started the picking on August 29, quite early, starting with the Bourgogne Blanc and finishing with the Pinot Noir, picking over nine days. The yields are between 45 hl/ha to 55 hl/ha. The vinification was regular, and the wines will be in barrel for 18 months. Given the warmth in the summer, I am very surprised by the freshness and the bitterness you find in the mouth.”

Readers will already be aware that I am a big fan of Moreau’s wines to the extent that I have given some of my highest scores for any Chassagne-Montrachet. That said, in 2023, I wonder whether such an early picking deprives some cuvées of the concentration, the body, they might otherwise have had. Don’t get me wrong, these are still wonderful wines, even if I prefer his 2022s. Check out his Beaujolais range under the L’Arlesienne label whereby Moreau farms vines at high altitudes – well worth seeking out.

From The Lord Giveth…Burgundy 2023 (Jan 2025) by Neal Martin

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2023 Bourgogne Blanc

Color: White

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