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Domaine Arnaud Ente

My first visit with this young winemaker turned up a brilliant set of '98s and '97s-wines with concentration, focus and personality, from low yields effected primarily through a very strict ebourgeonnage. From less than exceptional vintages, Ente has crafted wines as good as most white Burgundies from the best years. Ente began in '92 with just 2.5 hectares of vines and now has 4.5, including some Bourgogne aligote and Bourgogne chardonnay (I rated the pure, tangy '97 87 points-better than most growers' village wines). Ente does not use commercial yeasts, never acidifies, and leaves his wines on their lees for 10 to 12 months (he did a longer debourbage than normal in '98). He did little lees stirring for the '97s, which he says were already rich enough. Ente uses 25% new oak for his Meursaults but none for the Puligny Referts. He bottles after 18 months, without filtration, although the '97s were bottled a month or two earlier than normal. Ente describes both '98 and '97 as having good acidity, with sugars in '98 about a half-degree lower. As Ente took me through his '98s, he carefully topped up each barrel with the bottled '97 of the same appellation.

From 1998 and 1997 White Burgundies (Sep 1999) by Stephen Tanzer

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1997 Meursault Vieilles Vignes

Color: White

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