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Domaine Anne Gros

Anne Gros herself was taking a well-earned post-harvest rest when I visited, though that is no problem these days as her daughter, Julie, is taking an increasingly prominent role in the running of the domaine in Vosne-Romanée. “There was a lower crop than in 2018,” she explained between darting from one stainless steel vat to another. “Each year we buy 30 new barrels. The normal total production would be around 120 barrels but in 2019 we had 100 barrels, then 80 barrels in 2020. We started picking on 17 September with the Bourgogne Rouge followed by the Grand Crus, the reds before the whites. All the wines are aged in around one-third new oak with all cuvées entirely de-stemmed. They will be bottled in December.” This is always a small portfolio crowned by their holding in Richebourg, though in 2019 the pair that caught my eye were an excellent Echézeaux that overtook the Clos Vougeot in its slipstream, also an over-performing Vosne-Romanée Les Barreaux that could pass as a Premier Cru. Occasionally I wanted a little more density and grip, though that is not their style these days.

From La Lumière Noire: 2019 Burgundy - Côte de Nuits (Dec 2020) by Neal Martin

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2019 Rouge Bourgogne

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