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Deux Montille

The wines of siblings Alix and Etienne de Montille, made from purchased grapes from vines generally between 40 and 60 years of age, were among the most fascinating of my trip to Burgundy this spring. Alix, who is in charge of winemaking (she quit her winemaking job for Boisset in early 2003), looks for aromatic purity over everything else, including power, weight and alcoholic clout. She favors fruit with sound natural acidity and refuses to chaptalize, with the result that her wines from the 2004 vintage are all between 12% and 12.5% in alcohol. The wines are made traditionally and see little or no new oak. In fact, they were among the subtlest and purest wines I tasted on my recent tour, though fans of beefed-up chardonnays may find them too understated. Says Alix: "I prefer long wine to big wine." Pricing seems quite reasonable. (Martin-Scott Wines Ltd., Lake Success, NY; Beaune Imports, Berkeley, CA; Veritas, Beverly Hills, CA)

From 2004 and 2003 White Burgundies (Sep 2005) by Stephen Tanzer

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2004 Meursault Le Clos Des Rougeots

Color: White

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