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Dehlinger

Tom Dehlinger's wines are classic manifestations of the Goldridge formation, a band of marine sediment of volcanic origin (featuring clay, gravel and fine sand) stretching from the Santa Rosa plain in the east to the Coast Range in the west, and bounded on the north by the Russian River. All of Dehlinger's wines come from his own 45 acres of estate vines. Dehlinger picks late for maximum ripeness. "If we picked on sugars alone, the fruit flavors would lack richness and ripeness," notes Dehlinger. Still, pHs tend to be on the low side, thanks in part to the fact that the vines are dry-farmed. The pinots here are made in mostly 500-liter barrels, about one-third of which are new each year. Bottling takes place on the late side by current California standards. For example, the '97 pinots were racked three times: at the end of the first winter following a December malolactic fermentation, again prior to the '98 harvest, and then a third time before the bottling in April '99. The '97 Goldridge Vineyard Syrah was bottled in December of '99. Dehlinger describes the '97 vintage as "generous in all respects." He declined to show the '98 reds, which were still in barrel. Three-quarters of Dehlinger's production is sold via mailing list.

From Focus on California (May 2000) by Stephen Tanzer

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1997 Pinot Noir Estate Russian River Valley

Color: Red

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