The bar remains incredibly high at the Dal Forno Romano estate. Marco Dal Forno is truly a master of his craft, which is obvious when tasting these wines next to others throughout the region. The real secret, however, is time, as a Dal Forno Amarone needs plenty of it to integrate its oak perfectly and allow all of the deeper complexities to come to the surface. That said, enjoying them in their youth can be pure seduction.
This year's new releases include the long-awaited 2016 Amarone and Valpolicella. The winery decided to hold these back an extra year due to their intensity and hulking structure and released the 2017 first. Marco Dal Forno explained, “In 2016, we had only half the production due to the hail we had at the end of 2015. Weather was balanced. We had some temperature peaks but just a few days during the summer. It was easy to produce a great wine. However, 2016 needed more time to quiet down. It’s still aggressive.” And he’s right: while the 2016s are now entering the market, they will both require cellaring.
These are some of the best wines from Dal Forno that I’ve yet tasted. I also had a preview of the 2018 Amarone, a variable vintage in Valpolicella that is also more accessible. In the case of Dal Forno, the wine is an elegant and aromatic beauty. While more balanced and cooler than in 2017, the biggest challenge of 2018 was a rainstorm at the beginning of September that dropped 200 millimeters of water in twenty minutes. Luckily, their vineyards survived unscathed. Marco Dal Forno joked that he almost decided to release the 2018 prior to the 2016. He also explained that in 2019 and 2020, up to 80% of their production was lost to either hail or rain–making these highly coveted wines even more elusive. These new releases are built for the cellar.
From Veneto: A Constant State of Evolution (Feb 2024) by Eric Guido
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