Clos de Tart

There is a "merry-go-round" of winemakers in the heart of Morey-Saint-Denis and Clos de Tart/Domaine des Lambrays. Alessandro Noli has been drafted in from running Château Grillet in the Rhône to run Clos de Tart since the departure of Jacques Desvauges, now at Domaine des Lambrays. Noli was there to greet me at Clos de Tart with Frédéric Engerer, the director of all Artemis's wineries including Château Latour. Noli is a former lawyer who changed career and in 2006 started working in the vineyard at the aforementioned First Growth. He subsequently worked for four years at Domaine d’Eugénie where he implemented their biodynamic program from 2009. He headed up Château Grillet from 2011 and since last year, is now back in Burgundy. "He has the mindset of Artemis," Engerer told me. "He has the experience of running a monopole at Grillet and making assemblages of small lots. We have subdivided some of the plots according to vine age, soils type, massale selection and so forth, plus one parcel being replanted in 2018. [Engerer shows me a fascinating but complex map of the Clos]. There is also a new vat-room where we have 15 new wooden Taransaud vats augmented by the five stainless steel vats. There is a new Morey-Saint-Denis Village from young vines across all the plots." The introduction of a Village Cru mirrors the three-tiers of wine at Château Latour, though the production of this Village Cru is relatively small. I also asked about their intentions with respect to whole bunch addition, which has become increasingly important at Clos de Tart. Engerer told me that they are undertaking studies of the stems and the impact of whole bunch on the wine in order to find correlations where they might use whole clusters in the future. There is 60% in the 2018 vintage that was picked from 30 August, the earliest on record, dichotomous to former winemaker Sylvain Pitiot's policy of picking late. I was also told that the malolactic was done immediately after alcoholic fermentation and in some cases before the wines was racked down in barrels. Finally, I asked what their vision is for a vineyard whose history stretches back centuries. Engerer said: "We have an immense respect for what has been done: understanding older vintages and how they have aged even if they used different techniques. We want to make the best wine and realise its potential. We see different "faces" within Clos de Tart, different concentration and tannins, different energy that we can feel immediately."

From 2018 Burgundy: Confounded Expectations (Jan 2020) by Neal Martin

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2018 Clos de Tart Grand Cru

Color: Red

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2018 Morey-Saint-Denis Village

Color: Red

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2018 Morey-Saint-Denis La Forge de Tart 1er Cru

Color: Red

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