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Christophe Roumier (Domaine Georges Roumier)

Christophe Roumier, normally tougher on his wines than his clients are, describes his 2006s as "thinner in body than the 2005s but with very fresh fruit." Strict selection needed to be done in both the vines and on the sorting table due to the rot that appeared in the plots that experienced hail, he told me. In fact, the parcels affected by hail (parts of his Chambolle village, Clos de la Bussiere and Charmes-Chambertin) may have been a bit less ripe, but "it was not a big difference." Roumier noted that grape sugars in 2006 were in the vicinity of 12.5%, which he described as good; acidity levels in the grapes were average, though there was less malic than in '07 or '04. He prefers 2006 to 2004 for its charm. "The wines are more pleasurable, while 2004 is more serious," he explained. "And there's a big difference as you go up the hierarchy of vineyards in 2006," Roumier added. "At the cru level especially, the'06s have very good ageability." Roumier's top 2005 cuvees are magical; he ranks this superb vintage with his '02s and '99s. His scarce Musigny, of which a number of his luckiest private clients could snare a bottle or two, left the cellar at 200 Euros and was spotted on the Internet in late fall at well over $5,000. His top four 2005 bottlings are all stunning.

From 2006 and 2005 Red Burgundies (Mar 2008) by Stephen Tanzer

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2005 Musigny

Release Price: $625

Color: Red

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