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Château Thivin

Château Thivin is the standard bearer for the Côte de Brouilly. They farm about ten parcels around the vertiginous volcanic hill. The heart of the portfolio is a cluster of single-vineyard cuvées ranking amongst the finest in Beaujolais. Their winery is one of the quaintest in the region and is perched on the hillside, offering functional advantages as it enables them to use gravity in their winery. Though they have tended to eschew carbonic maceration, most of the fruit is fermented as whole bunches, depending on the vintage, before aging in foudres for six or twelve months.

On this occasion, I met with Sonja Geoffray, the wife of Claude-Edouard, who was out in the vineyard on the day of my visit. She told me that in 2021, they practiced more de-leafing in the vineyards to enhance aeration and prevent the spread of rot. The harvest commenced on September 16th. “We had to sort,” she explains, “but there was not a lot of damage from the hail. We did more de-stemming in this vintage.” This was a solid set of wines from Thivin. Not the best I have encountered over many years of visits, but they are unequivocally successful given the growing season, crowned by an outstanding Côte de Brouilly Cuvée Zaccharie.

From The Future Is Beaujolais: 2020-2022 Releases (May 2023) by Neal Martin

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2021 Côte de Brouilly Cuvée Zaccharie

Color: Red

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