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The portfolio of wines here continues to expand--up to ten different bottlings now--but John Raytek told me that "there's clearly a limit, which we may be hitting soon." That would be the point at which he would feel a lessening of control, a situation that he really doesn't like "especially when it comes to working in the vineyards." Like virtually all of his colleagues whom I met with this spring, Raytek pointed out that the danger of 2012's ideal season was the possibility of dilution due to the large crop, adding that thinning of fruit was essential throughout the growing season. There was a lot of fruit available on the market following the harvest, "but imagine what kind of yields much of it came from," he added. Fans of Raytek's concentrated yet lithe style of wines will find much to like from this year's set of releases, which showcase vibrancy and power as well as any other producer in the Golden State today.

From California's North Coast (May 2014) by Stephen Tanzer

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2012 Pinot Noir Hellenthal Vineyard Sonoma Coast

Release Price: $60

Color: Red

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