Sebastien Dauvissat described 2016 as “a catastrophic year.” There was some early frost in Séchets and Vaillons as well as some hail in early May. "Then after two months of rain, we went right to heat and humidity, which triggered mildew, and then it was very hot and dry in July and August. There wasn’t a lot of juice in the grapes, but then the rain in September unblocked the maturity and swelled the grapes, lowering acidity levels and triggering rot.” Dauvissat started harvesting on September 25 and picked in a quick five days, with grape sugars at 12.5% or higher owing to the small crop level. He won’t offer a Montmains or Séchets in 2016; in fact, he didn’t even pick much fruit in these vineyards, and he declassified it into his village wine.
I found these 2016s to be seriously rich wines, with more pliancy in their youth than is typical at this address. Dauvissat noted that the aromas of the '16s are like those of the '15s and he believes that both vintages will be easy to drink early. As the '15s were not yet in bottle (except for a village wine, which I tasted last year in finished form), I will not publish a second set of notes on these wines. My scores more or less track my projected ranges from last summer, with two exceptions. I preferred the 2015 Montmains, a wine that has been in stainless steel since the outset, to the sample I tasted a year ago. It's a slightly high-toned and rather exotic wine but combines sexy orange zest and stony lift with a plushness of texture and a mineral-driven acidity that it didn't show a year ago. On this occasion, I rated it 90-92. And the Vaillons Vieilles Vignes, which I tasted this time from cuve, showed altogether more tangy pineapple and grapefruit cut to go with its intense minerality, as well as lovely breadth without any heaviness. This penetrating, dry, classic wine boasts terrific palate coverage and merits a rating of 91-93.
From Chablis 2016 & 2015: Quality Over Quantity (Aug 2017) by Stephen Tanzer
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