Stephan von Neipperg did a 20% saignée in '95 because of rain dilution on his flatter sandy soils. The cuvaison lasted a full month, compared to 25 days in '94. Very reductive winemaking is the rule here. The malolactic fermentation takes place in barriques, and the lees are regularly stirred until the wine is assembled in January. Because the lees consume oxygen, it is possible to use very low doses of sulfur. After the wine is assembled, it is not racked again for a year; instead, von Neipperg pumps oxygen into the barrels when the wine needs aeration. Bottling takes place without fining or filtration. The Clos de l'Oratoire, from a vineyard on the north side of St Emilion, is 90% merlot, while the Canon La Gaffelière is generally a 50/50 blend of merlot and cabernet franc. About 55% new oak is used for both wines. Although recent vintages have not featured the high grape sugars of 1990 (14.3% potential alcohol!), von Neipperg considers '94 and '95 to be two superb years—the '94 with more finesse than the '90, and the '95 better still.
From 1995 and 1994 Bordeaux (May 1996) by Stephen Tanzer
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