Bodegas Fillaboa
Long one of the leading producers in Rías Baixas, Fillaboa has always been a steady and reliable producer, but over the last decade or so the quality of their wines has been on a consistent upward trajectory. This set of new releases are the best that I’ve ever had from them. The hot conditions of 2019 in no way adversely affected the energy and detail of their flagship bottling, which wasn’t the case with a number of bodegas in that vintage. All of the wines here are made with 100% estate-grown Albariño, from their own 54 hectares of granitic-soil-based vines situated in the inland section of the DO, near the Miño River, which marks Spain’s border with Portugal. Relying entirely on estate-grown fruit is far from the usual practice in Rías Baixas, especially for wineries of this size, as most vineyard holdings in the region range from small to minuscule. Winemaker Isabel Salgado uses basket presses and the wines are raised in stainless steel tanks, with regular stirring of the lees. The 2010 La Fillaboa 1898, which was aged on its lees for six years and then held back for more than four years until its first release, is a revelation. It makes a serious statement for the potential of Rías Baixas – but good luck finding a bottle, alas.
From Atlantic Spain: It’s Always About the Weather… (Jun 2021) by Josh Raynolds
2019 Albariño
Release Price: $58
Color: White
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2018 Albariño Selección Finca Monte Alto
Release Price: $20
Color: White
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2010 Albariño La Fillaboa 1898
Release Price: $26
Color: White
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