### Argiolas Turriga – A Sardinian Icon: 1988-2004

2004 Argiolas Turriga 93

2002 Argiolas Turriga 93

2001 Argiolas Turriga 94

2000 Argiolas Turriga 92

1999 Argiolas Turriga 92

1998 Argiolas Turriga 92

1997 Argiolas Turriga 90

1995 Argiolas Turriga 93

1994 Argiolas Turriga 90

1993 Argiolas Turriga 92+

1992 Argiolas Turriga 91

1991 Argiolas Turriga 92

1990 Argiolas Turriga 93

1989 Argiolas Turriga 88

1988 Argiolas Turriga 91

Argiolas is one of Sardinia’s – make that Italy’s – most historic properties, with a rich lineage that dates back to 1918, when the first vineyards were planted. The estate makes a large number of wines, including a number of terrific, budget-level offerings all the way to the top-of- the line Turriga, which has long set the benchmark for what great Sardinian reds are and can be all about. This incredible tasting provided an opportunity to taste nearly every vintage of Turriga from the inaugural 1988 to 2004.

Turriga is the brainchild of Giacomo Tachis, the consulting oenologist responsible for Sassicaia, Tignanello, Solaia and a number of first-rate Tuscan wines that defined an era when Italian reds first established themselves with consumers as top-flight wines that could match the finest bottles from around the world. The Turriga vineyard was planted in 1975. This limestone-rich plot sits at an altitude of 230 meters above sea level, where breezes from the ocean keep the fruit well-ventilated. Turriga is built around Cannonau, the island’s version of Grenache, which accounts for 70-85% of the final blend. Bovale Sardo, Carginano and Malvasia, also indigenous varieties, play supporting roles. The grapes are fermented separately for 16-18 days and subsequently aged in mostly new French oak prior to being assembled into the final wine.

One of the most impressive points that emerged from this tasting is that Turriga is a wine that needs considerable time to show its true pedigree. Most vintages are appealing upon release, but Turriga has a formidable track record of improving in bottle. I was also deeply impressed by the wine’s consistency from year to year. Even in smaller vintages, balance and a sense of proportion are never in question, while the finest years achieve a brilliant combination of power and elegance. Readers who seek to understand the heights Sardinian viticulture and winemaking can achieve owe it to themselves to explore Turriga, preferably a vintage with a few years of bottle age.

The **2004 Turriga** is fresh, tight and incredibly muscular at this stage. Dark cherries, sweet herbs and juniper berries are some the flavors that emerge over time, but only reluctantly. This remains a highly promising Turriga in need of significant cellaring. **93**. Drinking window: 2014-2024. The **2002 Turriga** is only now starting to soften. Roasted coffee beans and sweet spices suggest that early tertiary notes may be right around the corner. Today, the wine impresses for its impeccable balance and expressive, generous dark fruit. **93**. Drinking window: 2012-2020.

The **2001 Turriga** is endowed with gorgeous aromatics. Minerals and herbs gradually emerge from the glass adding complexity to the perfumed, silky fruit. The 2001 reveals terrific balance, length and clarity, all in a style that is at once powerful yet medium in body. This is a fabulous Turriga. **94**. Drinking window: 2011-2021. The **2000 Turriga** is a wine that impresses for its impeccable overall balance. This isn’t the biggest or richest Turriga, rather is a vintage that offers superb drinkability today in an open, accessible style I find irresistible. Tar, smoke and licorice linger on the beautiful finish. **92**. Drinking window: 2010-2020.

The **1999** is fairly weighty, powerful **Turriga**. Some of the delineation of the 2000 is missing, but the wine makes up for that with its harmonious personality. Sweet grilled herbs add a final layer of nuance on the close. **92**. Drinking window: 2010-2020.The **1998 Turriga** is a soft, floral red laced with menthol, herbs and dark fruit. The wine reveals gorgeous inner perfume, a finessed finish and the superb balance that is the signature of Turriga. **92**. Drinking window: 2010-2018.

The **1997** is the first of these **Turrigas** where the upside potential seems exhausted at this stage. This is a ripe, opulent vintage, with tons of harmony in the soft, generous fruit and a long, resonating finish. **90**. Drinking window: 2010-2014. The **1995 Turriga** is a fascinating wine, as it is all about elegance and understatement. Despite its smaller scale relative to other vintage, the 1995 remains fresh, vibrant and utterly impeccable. The ethereal, sensual finish shows elements of finesse that recall Nebbiolo. **93**. Drinking window: 2010-2018.

The **1994 Turriga** has held up quite well, but some rough edges are beginning to show. The tannins and the French oak are accentuated in the glass, while early oxidative notes make an appearance, all tell-tale signs the fruit is fading and that the wine needs to be drunk. **90**. Drinking window: 2010-2012. The **1993 Turriga** is an amazing wine, especially as it appears to still be years away from its peak! This is a powerful, massively rich Turriga with super-ripe fruit that recalls Amarone in its opulence. The 1993 appears to still be searching for its balance and at this stage I am not sure that will ever happen. The best way to enjoy the 1993 is probably to open the bottle well in advance. This is one of the most surprising vintages of this tasting. **92+**. Drinking window: 2010-2020.

The **1992 Turriga** is soft and fully developed. Herbs, coffee beans, spices and licorice add complexity and nuance to the generous core of fruit. This is a relatively approachable and slightly smaller-scaled Turriga, but the overall balance is once again beyond reproach. **91**. Drinking window: 2009-2014. The **1991** is another soft, open **Turriga**. Here the fruit tends towards the darker end of the spectrum, with pretty suggestions of spices, cedar, tobacco, spices, menthol and herbs. The 1991 reveals gorgeous inner perfume and an impeccably refined personality. **92.** Drinking window: 2009-2011.

The **1990 Turriga** is remarkable for the way it combines ripeness with what is an essentially quite ethereal personality. Clarity, precision and balance; it’s all there as the wine continues to open up in the glass. Tobacco herbs, licorice and dark fruit follow through to the long, harmonious finish. This is a gorgeous Turriga. **93**. Drinking window: 2010-2020. The **1989 Turriga** is still intact, although slight elements of oxidation and dilution in the fruit suggest the wine is at or past peak. Any remaining bottles need to be drunk up. **88**. Drinking window: 2010. The **1988** is delicate, perfumed and wonderfully intact. This is well on its way to the tertiary stage, but there is enough fruit to provide for another few years of fine drinking. The 1988 is impressive, but it, too, needs to be drunk sooner rather than later. Nevertheless, this is a great showing for the debut vintage of Turriga. **91**. Drinking window: 2010-2012.

-- Antonio Galloni

  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  


Argiolas Turriga – A Sardinian Icon: 1988-2004

Argiolas Turriga – A Sardinian Icon: 1988-2004 (Apr 2010)

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