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Antinori - Castello della Sala

Back in the 1980s, Castello della Sala's winemaker Renzo Cotarella was much better known than his brother Riccardo, chiefly for the great wines he made at this Antinori-owned estate. The estate itself is a marvel, with a fortress dating back to 1350 situated on a limestone-and-tufa mountainous spur overlooking the Orvieto valley. Antinori's and Cotarella's never-ending drive for excellence brought years of field trials and studies leading to some of central Italy's first plantings of varieties such as pinot nero and gewurztraminer. The creation of Cervaro, long one of Italy's best white wines, is another major feather in their cap, with recent vintages of this wine showing a gentler hand in the use of new oak. Though fine wine is what everyone will forever associate with Renzo Cotarella, the few of us fortunate enough to be involved in wine writing and lecturing back in the early '80s will also remember him for the standout flavored caprini cheeses he used to bring from Umbria to downtown Rome for us to taste alongside his new vintages. Also recommended: 2005 Pinot Nero Umbria Rosso (85).

From Ian D'Agata on the Best Wines of Central Italy (Jul 2009) by Ian D'Agata

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2006 Conte Della Vipera Umbria

Release Price: $26

Color: White

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