France: Burgundy, featured
“Am I going too fast?” Lalou Bize-Leroy asks as she takes me through her bottled 2016s. Not a chance. One of the first things I observed when I started visiting the domaine years ago was Lalou’s intense pace, which remains pretty much the same today. “I like to taste quickly,” she adds. “With wines its either ‘yes’ or ‘no’. There is no middle ground. Just like people.” That insight is one of many that emerge over the course of this remarkable survey of the 2016s.
United States: Oregon, featured
Two thousand sixteen is yet another link in an unprecedented chain of outstanding vintages in the Willamette Valley that began in 2014 and has now extended to 2018. Compared to the ‘14s and ‘15s, the ‘16s, while on the rich side for Pinot Noir, show more freshness than wines of the previous years at a similar stage.
Vinous Table, United Kingdom
As banal as it sounds, what I love about Noizé is its simplicity. You come here to eat well. If you are looking for a vibrant atmosphere, good French food and a central location, I cannot recommend Noizé enough.
South Africa, Verticals & Retrospectives, featured
Two Chrises (Alheit and Mullineux). Two winemakers. Two Chenin Blancs. Two wines that have helped transform the image of South African wines. Two vertical tastings here in one Vinous article.
cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites, France: Bordeaux
I procured two or three bottles of the 1970 Gallais Bellevue from a Saint-Émilion retailer not because I had a clue who or what Gallais Bellevue was, but because of the name of the proprietor, Paul Delon.
Italy, Vinous Table
Ca d’Oro, known locally as Alla Vedova, is one of Venice’s most historic osterias. Located in the trendy Cannaregio sestriere, Ca d’Oro is famous for its polpette, an absolutely iconic dish, and one of the main reasons why locals and tourists flock here.
General Declarations of Vintage Port tend to be spread three or four per decade and never successively. But hot on the heels of the fêted 2016 arrive their 2017 counterparts. What kind of growing season prompted this unprecedented move and do these latest releases offer something different?
France: Champagne, cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites
The 2014 Brut Nature Les Hautes Blanches Vignes is the first wine I have tasted from Christophe Baron’s new project in Champagne, and it is magnificent.
France, Vinous Table
L’Ancrage, in Saint-Malo’s very pretty old town, is nobody’s idea of a snooty dining destination, and that sits perfectly fine with the restaurant’s patrons, who flock to it in droves, happy in the knowledge that they will eat and drink well for a song.
Italy: Piedmont, featured
Although Barolo, Barbaresco, and, more recently, Alto Piemonte get the lion’s share of attention, Piedmont has so much to offer beyond those highly-regarded appellations. Dolcetto, Barbera, Freisa, Timorasso and a host of other indigenous varieties give consumers myriad options for discovering the breadth of diversity that makes Piedmont one of the world’s most dynamic regions.