So Chic, So Listrac: Fourcas Hosten
France: Bordeaux, featured, Verticals & Retrospectives
, Jul 2021
The Bordelais have always been the epitome of chic – in the way they carry themselves, in their deportment, in how they dress irrespective of age. They cannot countenance shabbiness. Perhaps at home they slob around in tatty jogging bottoms and flip-flops, but the boulevards of Bordeaux are a veritable crisscross of catwalks and luxury boutiques. Perhaps then, it is unsurprising that fashion houses have been lured to Bordeaux and acquired some its most famous châteaux.
Two + Two = Trouble
France: Bordeaux, featured
, Jul 2021
The recent announcement that Cheval Blanc and Ausone would not participate in the forthcoming Saint-Émilion Classification caused shockwaves across Bordeaux and beyond. I examine both sides of the argument as the appellation comes to terms with a classification without two of its star players.
Penfolds Collection 2021
Australia, featured
, Jul 2021
This year’s Penfolds collection consists of all of their icon bottlings, including a few surprises. In 2017, the flagship Grange was made entirely from Shiraz, only the seventh time this has happened since the first Grange was produced in 1951.
Owen Bargreen Joins Vinous
General Interest, featured
, Jul 2021
I am pleased to announce that Owen Bargreen has joined Vinous as an Editor with the responsibility for covering wines from Washington State. Additionally, Owen will take a look at wines from often overlooked areas around the US, including Virginia, Michigan and Texas.
Announcement: Stephen Tanzer Becomes Vinous Critic Emeritus
General Interest, featured
, Jul 2021
I am delighted to announce that Stephen Tanzer is now Critic Emeritus at Vinous. Steve will transition day-to-day responsibilities for his key regions to our team of critics while continuing to write occasional articles.
Western Australia: Old World–Style Reds and Whites
Australia, featured
, Jul 2021
Western Australia is a virtual island unto itself within the country’s wine world. Its most famous viticultural region, Margaret River, is located almost 3,000 kilometers from the heart of the famed Barossa Valley, with precious little of anything except space in between. It’s a long way to the west, and the style of wines couldn’t be any more different.
Treasures of Italy’s Southern Adriatic and Ionian Coasts
featured, Italy: Center & South
, Jul 2021
It’s no wonder that the Romans thought of the territory that comprises Calabria, Basilicata and Puglia as a Garden of Eden. These regions between the southern Adriatic and Ionian coasts and the mountains to the north are strongly influenced by both elevation and proximity to the sea. Whites and reds frequently overdeliver, making Calabria, Basilicata and Puglia treasure troves of value, while the top wines rival the best of Italy.
Remembering Jim Clendenen
featured, Vinous Remembers
, Jul 2021
The texts started coming in over the weekend. Jim Clendenen had passed away. I was in shock. We had a tasting scheduled in two weeks. Surely this was some sort of mistake. Sadly, those early reports turned out to be true.
A Shard of Greek Sunshine
featured, Greece
, Jun 2021
In my obituary for Harry Gill, I mentioned that our last conversation concerned a long-proposed tasting of wines from his beloved homeland, Greece. He was always holding court at the bar of his restaurant, serving and celebrating Greek wines in his own inimitable way. Some did not quite match his enthusiasm, but every now and then I discovered an absolute gem like the Assyrtiko from Hatzidakis Winery that could whisk you away to a sun-kissed Mediterranean island on the rainiest winter afternoon.
Argentina: New High-Altitude, High-Precision Whites
featured, Argentina
, Jun 2021
Captivating. That’s the word for many of the white wines being produced in Argentina today. A new kind of Chardonnay is being crafted in the mountain vineyards of Argentina based on lively freshness and pure, ripe fruity flavors. The interpretations of these extreme terroirs being developed by an insightful group of producers are raising the bar for the variety in a country best known for its Malbec. Meanwhile, old Sémillon vines are being rediscovered in the more traditional regions and some excellent sparkling wines are popping up all over the country.