What Should We Be Doing Now?
featured, General Interest
, Jun 2020
As the world grapples with several major crises, the outlook for the future has never been less certain. Things change from day to day, often unpredictably. Beyond what is obvious from reading headlines full of stories on the COVID-19 pandemic, major economic duress and racism, it is clear the current situation is causing levels of stress and uncertainty that are harder to quantify, but that are exerting a heavy toll. “I have real misgivings about promoting my wines right now given what is going on in the world” numerous industry professionals have told me. “Is wine really all that essential?” others have asked. Well, these are my thoughts…
The Good, Bad and Ugly: Burgundy 2010, 2003 & 2004
France: Burgundy, featured
, Jun 2020
Three snapshot tastings of mature Burgundy vintages, 2003 and 2004 reds and 2010 whites, served as a reminder that whilst some vintages repay cellaring, others can remain “ugly ducklings”.
Exploring Northern Rhône Whites
France: Rhône & Beaujolais, featured
, May 2020
The hot growing conditions that defined the 2017, 2018 and 2019 vintages in the Northern Rhône show in the white wines, but the best examples also offer a good bit of energy to counterbalance their richness and ripeness. Simply put, the whites here have never been better, while the top bottlings are easily some of the world’s finest wines.
Vintage Retrospective: The 2010 Napa Valley Cabernets
United States: California, Verticals & Retrospectives, featured
, May 2020
The Vinous vintage chart rates 2010 as the top vintage for Napa Valley Cabernet between 1991 and 2013. As my recent retrospective tasting showed, the 2010s are overdelivering on their early promise.
'Tis the Season for Rosato
featured, Italy
, May 2020
It’s time to think pink, especially as the weather warms and we long for those lazy summer afternoons poolside or at the grill. With all of the regions that produce Rosé throughout Italy, the big question is: What are the differences between all of the styles of Rosé that are available today? This year's Rosato Report showcases the top performers, as well as giving insights into the 2019 vintage.
Hopes and Dreams: Canon Chaigneau 1998-2019
Verticals & Retrospectives, France: Bordeaux, featured
, May 2020
The impact of COVID-19 is not evenly spread across society, nor across wine estates. Imagine you were on the cusp of buying a small Bordeaux château when suddenly the world is in lockdown. What happens then? This is the story of Canon Chaigneau.
Denis Durantou 1957-2020
featured, Vinous Remembers
, May 2020
Vines never mourn the passing of a winemaker. They stay rooted to the ground, oblivious to the loss. Without a moment’s pause they burst into life for another year, another vintage. L’Eglise-Clinet is no exception. However this year those vines will bear fruit without the man to whom they are indebted, Denis Durantou. After months of illness, Durantou finally succumbed last Friday - a winemaker gone far too soon. Pomerol will never quite be the same again.
Northern Rhône: A First Look at the 2019s
France: Rhône & Beaujolais, featured
, May 2020
While my late-winter visit to the northern Rhône focused primarily on tasting the 2017s and bottled 2018s, I also had a chance to try a good number of 2019s. Like 2018, 2019 was a hot and dry year, but the wines look extremely promising and show an uncanny blend of depth and vivacity.
Six Decades of Pavie-Macquin: 1928-2018
Verticals & Retrospectives, France: Bordeaux, featured
, May 2020
Pavie-Macquin is one of the great success stories of Saint-Émilion. This retrospective going all the way back to 1928 provided a remarkable opportunity to witness the evolution of the property from underachiever to superstar, with all of the highs and lows that invariably accompany an extensive vertical that spans epic, average and challenging vintages. For the occasion, estate manager Nicolas Thienpont and consulting oenologist Stéphane Derenoncourt gathered every wine they have made at Pavie-Macquin, with a few surprises thrown into the mix.
Remember, Remember: 1945 Bordeaux
France: Bordeaux, featured
, May 2020
Today is the 75th anniversary of V-E Day. Plans for mass celebrations have been cancelled as the world faces its biggest challenge since World War II, denying us the opportunity to publicly honor and thank the veterans who fought for our freedom. None of this diminishes the importance of the day. This article was written to coincide with V-E Day and the momentous year of 1945. It is more than a list of wines and scores. It endeavors to present an objective analysis of the vintage and its wines, explaining why it turned out more successful than others. Most importantly, it provides historical context, not only as a region under the control of the occupying German army, but also from the viewpoint of individual châteaux.