Valpolicella & Soave: The Times, They Are A Changin’
Italy: North, featured
, Feb 2021
Veneto is home to a number of oenological riches, from the whites of Soave to the reds of the Valpolicella district, including the renowned Amarone, one of Italy’s most important wines. The region’s most dynamic, passionate producers are determined to show that their wines stand in stark contrast to the at times indifferent wines that once penalized the image of these appellations in the mind of the consumer.
South Africa – A Delayed Primer
South Africa, featured
, Feb 2021
It was early March 2020, and I was meeting dear friends for our annual lunch at Limewood in the New Forest, where we put the world to rights and gossip like there’s no tomorrow. And in a sense, there was no tomorrow. This turned out to be the last time any of us enjoyed a day trip, mingling with others without fear of falling ill. But the normal world was slipping away, as evidenced by the manner in which the receptionist kept her distance, the novelty of widely spaced tables and, on the train journey home, news that my daughter’s exchange trip to Germany was canceled. I remember the wine that day, a delicious bottle of 2017 Chardonnay from Ataraxia, prompting thoughts of visiting the Cape in the late summer, when surely the pandemic would be in the rearview mirror.
In Memoriam: Harry Gill
Vinous Remembers, featured
, Feb 2021
Harry was a constant figure on London’s tasting circuit and Bordeaux en primeur week. A visit to his restaurant in Swiss Cottage was a rite of passage for anyone connected with the wine industry or interested in wine. His passing deserves a tribute because I am not the only person to declare that a valuable chunk of my vinous education took place at The Arches.
.jpg?1613055303)
2017 Barolo: Here We Go Again…
featured, Italy: Piedmont
, Feb 2021
The 2017 Barolos arrived literally as we published the last of our 2016 Barolo reviews. Time to start all over with new wines and a new vintage. In the last two decades Piedmont has become one of the most dynamic regions in the world. Keeping up with the pace of releases these days is quite a challenge, but it’s an incredibly stimulating challenge, as there is so much to discover. Interest for Barolo and Piedmont has never been higher, pandemic or not. There is plenty to like about the 2017 Barolos, as readers will see.
The Vast Bounty of Central Spain
featured, Spain
, Feb 2021
While serious wine fanatics are well acquainted with Ribera del Duero, Toro and Rueda, much of the world consumes millions of gallons of wine a year made in the less lofty nearby regions, especially La Mancha and the far-reaching Castilla y León, both of which often deliver excellent value. Then there are unsung DOs like Campo de Borja, where readers will find some of the biggest bang-for-the-buck Grenache in the world.
2018 Tuscany Preview
featured, Italy: Tuscany
, Feb 2021
The 2018 Tuscany Preview revives a tradition from years back, when I published an early look at new releases from Tuscany each spring. Well, the Tuscany Preview is back and features some of the year’s most exciting upcoming releases, many of them reference-point wines of historical significance.
Extreme High-Altitude Wines from Argentina's Northern Valleys
featured, Argentina
, Feb 2021
In the northwest of Argentina, there is a chain of magical valleys, weird and wonderful landscapes where the air at high altitude is so thin it can leave you gasping for breath. The endless deserts and ravines are, remarkably, producing wines of such extraordinary power that they rarely fail to seduce visitors to the area and connoisseurs much farther afield.
Conterno Monfortino Magnum Vertical: 1970-2014
Verticals & Retrospectives, featured, Italy: Piedmont
, Feb 2021
With this year’s Festa del Piemonte in full swing I thought it would be fun to revisit one of the highlights from the 2020 edition, our Rare Wine Dinner featuring a stunning vertical of Giacomo Conterno’s Barolo Riserva Monfortino spanning vintages 1970 through 2014. It was truly a night to remember.
Friuli Venezia Giulia – In Constant Motion
Italy: North, featured
, Jan 2021
This is not quite Italy, Austria or Slovenia; it is distinctly Friuli Venezia Giulia, and what forward-thinking producers in the region have accomplished through decades of toying and tinkering to find that perfect mix has created a kaleidoscope of styles from ancient to international to completely experimental.
La Lumière Noire: 2019 Burgundy Additions
France: Burgundy, featured
, Jan 2021
When it comes to Burgundy, the job is never done. So having published some 2,500 reviews in December, this article includes a tranche of notes from additional producers’ 2019s that were subsequently tasted in the UK.