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Grape Expectations: Burgundy 1978 Retrospective

It was a privilege to attend this 1978 horizontal—however, there is always a risk when broaching old bottles, especially Pinot Noir from an era besmirched by swings in quality. Fortunately, scattered among the disappointments is a clutch of bottles that sparkle like rubies in the sand.

Pinball Number Count: Bouchard Père 1923-2013

The second edition of Bouchard Père & Fils’ time travels through their enviably deep library comprised a number of vintages ending in the number “three,” all served blind at the domaine’s headquarters in Beaune. This tasting revealed a clutch of remarkable bottles from forgotten vintages.

The Murakami Wine: Royal Tokaji Essencia 1993-2017

If Haruki Murakami’s books featured wine instead of whiskey, the protagonist would drink Tokaji Essencia then suffer an existential crisis, pondering whether it is “wine” at all. Maybe this remarkable vertical tasting of every vintage of Essencia ever produced by Royal Tokaji helps answer that question...

2014 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon: A Dark Horse Emerges

This retrospective of the 2014 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignons was one of the most fascinating I have done in a long time. Sandwiched between 2013 and 2015, 2014 has always lived outside the limelight. At age ten, however, 2014 is having a moment. I tasted many exceptional 2014s that will give wines from more renowned vintages a run for their money, and some that will eclipse them entirely.

A Vintage of Transcendence: 2004 Brunello di Montalcino Retrospective

The 2004 vintage in Montalcino will always be remembered for its balance, embodying the pursuit of purity that emerged before the full force of climate change set in. Now, two decades later, how have the wines aged?

Dunn: Cabernet Sauvignon Howell Mountain 1985-2014

I have always been drawn to archetypes. Reference points. Wines that are standard bearers for their variety, appellation and/or style. Perhaps that is a vestige of my musical training, but there is something about classics that has always spoken to me. In Napa Valley, few wines embody those qualities more fully than Dunn’s Cabernet Sauvignon Howell Mountain. This tasting provided a fabulous opportunity to revisit a wide range of vintages going all the way back to the 1980s.

Morlet Family Vineyards: Cabernet Sauvignon Mon Chevalier 2007-2019

Knights Valley is one of the most fascinating regions in Northern California. The AVA lies just north of Calistoga and is nestled between Alexander Valley, Chalk Hill and Fountaingrove in a corner of Sonoma County that feels quite remote and pastoral. Knights Valley excels with red and white Bordeaux varieties. The reds are marked by distinctive savory and mineral notes that, at times, recall the great wines of Pessac-Léognan. Luc and Jodie Morlet’s Cabernet Sauvignon Mon Chevalier is a terrific example of what Knights Valley has to offer. This retrospective back to the inaugural 2007 provided a fascinating opportunity to see how the wine ages.

The Misunderstood Margaux: Marquis de Terme 1947-2021

Marquis de Terme is a Margaux château that flies under the radar. Estate director Ludovic David offered me a rare insight into the property and presented a vertical of over 20 vintages back to the postwar period.

Conti Costanti: Montalcino’s Most Historic Estate

As a self-taught young man, Andrea Costanti immersed himself in the world of winemaking and Brunello di Montalcino. He rose to become one of the region's leading winemakers. This vertical details the last nineteen years of that evolution, showing Costanti’s blend of traditionalism and progression.

Kumeu River: The Kiwi Dream

Consistency, balance and a distinct house style have placed Kumeu River among the classics. From humble beginnings 80 years ago, this estate has established itself as a major player in New Zealand and around the world.

Tiberio's Fonte Canale: Redefining Trebbiano d'Abruzzo

In only 12 years, Fonte Canale has become one of Italy's iconic white wines. Tiberio’s Fonte Canale is made from the hard-to-find Trebbiano Abruzzese grape. This vertical, spanning the first official release in 2012 up to a preview of the yet-to-be-released 2022, will give readers a good idea of how the wines develop over time.

Memories Elide: Vieux Château Certan 1923-2020

An unrepeatable 57-vintage vertical of Vieux Château Certan marking the Thienponts’ century of ownership deserved an article of equal ambition. Bringing to life those from the past and present who made this remarkable event possible, this is a story as much about people as it is about a remarkable wine.

The Minnow: Sigalas Rabaud 1975-2019

Continuing my coverage of Sauternes, big and small, this look at Sigalas Rabaud falls into the latter category as one of the appellation’s smallest First Growths. This vertical, held at the property, covers vintages from 1975 to 2019.

Rockeries in Living Rooms: 1988 vs. 1989 Bordeaux

Bordeaux vintages are so fascinating that people have been known to write entire books about them! Here, I focus on two particularly intriguing but stylistically different vintages, 1988 and 1989. The former has never quite had the same reputation as the latter. Did that play out during these themed dinners?

Once Upon a Time – Soldera Retrospective: 1977-2017

It remains one of the greatest tastings I have ever been a part of, either as an attendee or a host. Forty-six wines, all of them in superb shape. Even wines from smaller or less well-known vintages were sublime. Not a single bottle was corked or oxidized. The memories from this retrospective of Gianfranco Soldera’s wines will last forever.

Archive Away: Mature Burgundies 1919-2019

Every year, I round up all the stray bottles of Burgundy and publish them in a single article. This year’s edition is the customary eclectic array of wines stretching back over decades, from feted recent vintages to others best forgotten, from legendary producers to “Who?”

It’s All in the Name: Domaine Pierre Vincent

Pierre Vincent is one of the most talented winemakers working in Burgundy. After producing a raft of great wines at Domaine de la Vougeraie and then Domaine Leflaive, Vincent is about to embark upon a new chapter in his career, the 2023s representing the maiden vintage of wines under his own name.

Ironing Out The Kinks: Jim Barry The Armagh 1985-2021

The tale of Jim Barry’s Armagh Shiraz has mirrored the national wine story over the last forty years. Terroirs with the highest aspirations from the outset have taken time to hit their straps, with occasional missteps along the way. Thanks to greater precision in the vineyard and winery, the last ten years have seen this Clare Valley Shiraz slip into a neat groove with a unique mix of sheer power and finesse. This was showcased in this complete vertical tasting stretching back to the inaugural 1985 vintage.

2012 & 2013 Napa Valley: Too Close to Call

The 2012 and 2013 vintages are among the best in recent memory. Both were met with considerable acclaim. Now that the wines have passed their tenth birthdays, it’s time to look back and see how things have shaped up, to examine which wines met or exceeded expectations and which did not.

Oldies But Goldies: Bouchard Père 1892-2012

Bouchard Père & Fils own one of the deepest Burgundy libraries of vintages back to the 19th century. This article recounts last November’s dinner when bottles with years ending in two stretching back through decades were opened.

Past Becomes Now: Lafite-Rothschild 1874-1982

Lafite-Rothschild can age for decades, but it can be a difficult wine to understand. This vertical stretches back to the 19th century and features some riveting examples of the First Growth and vintages that were reminders of how precarious it can be opening ancient Claret.

An Exploration of Time: Gruaud Larose 1831-2018

Do you want one of the most comprehensive reports on Gruaud Larose ever written? Do you want to know its history and first-hand information from proprietor Jean Merlaut? Do you want 70 tasting notes stretching back in time to 1831? You’ve come to the right place.

Borgo del Tiglio Rosso Riserva: The Road Less Traveled

Why would one of the greatest producers of white wine in Italy want to organize a tasting of the second label of their red wine? This is the question that was on my mind as I drove down the country road that leads to Cormòns, the small hamlet that is home to Borgo del Tiglio.

Test of Endurance: Bordeaux 2014 Ten Years On

The Bordeaux 2014 vintage has reached ten years of age, an ideal opportunity to look back, both in blind and sighted tastings, and see how the wines are evolving. As usual, there were plenty of surprises, not always positive, however.

Merci, Monsieur Amiot: Clos des Lambrays 1923-2021

Behind every label of an iconic wine lie nameless men and women whose combined talent and labor led to its creation. This vertical of Clos des Lambrays is dedicated to Etienne Amiot, a predecessor of Jacques Devauges, who oversaw the creation of these sublime wines.
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