Internationally perceived by some as the defining wines of Friuli-Venezia Giulia, macerated white wines from the area are blockbusters of the wine world. However, their inception, ‘history’ and quality have become confused, and in the blinding glow of their popularity, the region finds itself in yet another identity crisis. I visited the first adopters of the style to discover how the wines came to be, their meaning today and the realities of the region where they come from.

Two successive warm and drought-filled years challenged winemakers in Friuli-Venezia Giulia, yet the 2021s and 2022s still offer plenty of pleasure. Readers will find many beautifully balanced yet sun-kissed wines. Unfortunately, others lack substance and come across as aromatically challenged, ripe and one-dimensional.

Over the past two decades, Trentino-Alto Adige was largely unaffected by the negative impact of climate change yet is now dealing with successive warm vintages. While we can still depend on their production of cool, crisp whites and alpine reds, recent years have reshaped the wines and forced producers to begin thinking outside of the box.

Why would one of the greatest producers of white wine in Italy want to organize a tasting of the second label of their red wine? This is the question that was on my mind as I drove down the country road that leads to Cormòns, the small hamlet that is home to Borgo del Tiglio.

Veneto remains a hotbed of activity and a source of many of Italy’s finest wines. Amarone, Valpolicella Superiore and Soave, along with an exciting mix of IGTs and Bordeaux blends, make for a large selection of high-quality wines. Wide stylistic differences, varying levels of quality from one estate to another and new releases that span multiple vintages (especially for Amarone) mean readers have plenty to choose from.

The holidays are upon us. While I don’t think anyone needs an excuse to open a great bottle of sparkling wine, the reality is that more bottles in this category will be sold in the next three weeks than at any other time during the year.

Is there such a thing as too much good wine? In Trentino-Alto Adige, there may be. Quality is exceptionally high, prices are incredibly fair, and producers continue to raise the bar. However, consumers have to navigate a multilingual system and wade through an ocean of entry-level wines to get to the best the region has to offer.

Friuli-Venezia Giulia’s potential is evident every time I visit and taste with winemakers. A melting pot of traditions, cultures and terroirs, Friuli-Venezia Giulia is capable of producing world-class wines from a staggering list of indigenous and international grape varieties. However, the region faces many hurdles in fully realizing that potential at a higher level.

Veneto is undergoing a remarkable transformation. Amarone is achieving a newfound balance, Valpolicella is seeking more refinement, and Soave increasingly emphasizes terroir-driven, expressive wines. In addition, the interior areas boast a number of under-the-radar gems, making Veneto a region to get genuinely excited about.

Italian by definition, yet more influenced by French and Swiss neighbors, Valle d’Aosta is quite unique relative to other regions in Italy. It’s precisely that diversity that makes Valle d’Aosta both fun and intriguing to explore.

Trentino and Alto Adige appear to be on the cusp of grasping unheralded potential. For many years, a microcosm of cooperatives and growers, both large and small-scaled, have been turning out some of the best white wines in Italy, but they were the exception, not the rule. However, through a renewed sense of place, a focus on purity and, in some cases, the effects of global warming, that number is steadily increasing.

Friuli-Venezia Giulia is one of the most culturally and climatically diverse regions in Italy. It should come as no surprise that the region produces a vast range of wines as a result. From crisp varietal whites and richer blends, to wild, indigenous reds and extended skin-contact, amphora-aged wines, the wines of Friuli run the gamut. Quality can be variable, so readers must be selective.

Amarone is one of Italy’s most well-known reds, and yet one of the last bottles we pull from our cellars when looking for that special wine. Producers in Valpolicella have been hard at work to change the perception of Amarone as being too big, too sweet and too much. The wines they are bottling are incredibly exciting.

Soave’s most ambitious producers have worked hard to overcome the mixed reputation that was so penalizing in the past. It’s been a long journey and one fraught with many challenges, yet the first signs of that effort are starting to show in a bevy of wines that increasingly merit serious attention.

It is easy to get discouraged these days, as so many reference point wines continue to soar out of reach of the average consumer. But, there are still regions where the savvy wine lover can find truly distinctive wines; wines of place that are both compelling and reasonably priced. Inquisitive readers will find much to explore in the wines of Alto Piemonte, Valtellina and other nearby appellations.

Emilia-Romagna is the source of Italy’s most beloved culinary creations. Can you imagine a world without Parmigiano-Reggiano, prosciutto di Parma and aceto balsamico? Yet what we don’t often consider are the wines that make a perfect pairing for this rich and hearty cuisine. Add in one of Italy’s undiscovered sources of Sangiovese, and you have a region that no wine lover should ignore.

When we think of wines that will improve with age, challenging our palates and our intellects over decades of cellaring, it’s usually not a white that comes to mind, especially not a Sauvignon Blanc from Isonzo, Friuli. However, Gianfranco Gallo of Vie di Romans set out over forty years ago to prove us all wrong. Has he? With a fourteen-vintage vertical of the Sauvignon Blanc Vieris direct from the cellar, we’re about to find out.

This bottle of Quintarelli’s 2006 Amarone della Valpolicella Classico made me feel like I was back in the cellar, tasting with the man himself, as I was lucky to do a few times before his passing.

Veneto is home to a number of oenological riches, from the whites of Soave to the reds of the Valpolicella district, including the renowned Amarone, one of Italy’s most important wines. The region’s most dynamic, passionate producers are determined to show that their wines stand in stark contrast to the at times indifferent wines that once penalized the image of these appellations in the mind of the consumer.

This is not quite Italy, Austria or Slovenia; it is distinctly Friuli Venezia Giulia, and what forward-thinking producers in the region have accomplished through decades of toying and tinkering to find that perfect mix has created a kaleidoscope of styles from ancient to international to completely experimental.

The holidays are upon us. It’s the season where more bubbly is purchased and consumed than at any other time of the year. Whether it’s for gifting, celebrating or the perfect pairing at your holiday meal, a bottle of bubbly always fits the bill. This report looks at Prosecco and Franciacorta, two of Italy’s greatest treasures.

As if engrossed in a Tolkienesque fantasy novel, we delve into the labyrinth of producers, varieties, labels, languages and the diverse terroirs of Trentino and Alto Adige. However, while traversing this realm where Italian meets Austrian meets German, it quickly becomes apparent that the effort we put in to comprehending its people and the array of fascinating and stimulating wines they produce is truly worthwhile. Together, let's take a trip down the rabbit hole to better understand two of Italy’s most under-the-radar regions.

When we think of Italy’s highly successful experiments with Bordeaux blends, it’s often the coast of Tuscany that comes to mind. But what if I told you that one of the country’s grandest wines hails from the north instead, in the region of Trentino? I invite you to explore the past, present and future of Tenuta San Leonardo through one of the most riveting verticals ever assembled.

There is no question that Nebbiolo is one of the world’s greatest and most noble red grapes. An ability to convey the essence of site and vintage through the lens of producer style places Nebbiolo in rarified company. Once consumers experience the magic of Nebbiolo – most often through the wines of the Langhe – it is only natural to ask: What else is out there? The answer is Alto Piemonte and Valtellina, two separate and distinct regions, both of which offer so much to explore.

Venica’s Ronco delle Cime is one of Italy’s benchmark Friulanos. Sleek and refined, it ages well, never losing its crisp, juicy character and food-friendly personality.