Cristal – The 1980s…A Decade of Change
France, France: Champagne, featured
, Dec 2018
A recent vertical of 1980s Cristals was the third chapter in a remarkable series of tastings I have been fortunate to experience at Roederer over the last few years. In each of those occasions, I have come away with a deeper understanding of what makes Cristal and Cristal Rosé so special. For this tasting, longtime Chef de Caves Jean-Baptiste Lécaillon presented a complete vertical of the 1980s Cristals, all from the original disgorgements, for what turned out to be an unforgettable survey of a decade during which so much changed in Champagne.
Champagne – The Season’s New Releases
France: Champagne, featured
, Nov 2018
I came away from my annual fall Champagne tastings absolutely exhilarated by the quality of the wines. As it turns out, I reviewed most of the new releases from the grandes marques in our Summer Preview, so this article focuses heavily on grower Champagnes. That is merely a coincidence, or maybe in the end, it isn’t. As I scan through the domaines covered in this article I can’t help but pause to think about how much Champagne has changed in just the last decade or so.
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Champagne: The 2018 Summer Preview
France: Champagne
, Jul 2018
Two thousand-eighteen is shaping up to be a terrific year for Champagne lovers, as there are a number of new releases in the market, from large houses and small estates alike, including many wines that are being offered for the first time. Champagne continues to be one of the most fascinating regions in the world. Of course, the best wines are compelling, but it is the fast pace with which new Champagnes and estates continue to emerge that makes the region so exciting today. The 2018 Summer Preview mostly focuses on new releases in advance of my much larger and more comprehensive annual fall coverage.
Cellar Favorite: 1966 Heidsieck & Co. Brut Rosé Dry Monopole
France: Champagne, cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites
, Apr 2018
AG will probably kill me if he reads this, so please don’t tell him, but I once wrote something along the lines: “if you want to drink mature Champagne then you might as well pour a prematurely oxidized Meursault into a Sodastream.”
Cellar Favorite: 2002 Bollinger Vieilles Vignes Françaises
France: Champagne, cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites
, Dec 2017
Bollinger’s 2002 Vieilles Vignes Françaises remains one of the most compelling wines of this iconic Champagne vintage.
Champagne: 2017 New Releases
France: Champagne, featured
, Dec 2017
Champagne remains one of the hottest regions in the world. The emergence of small, family run domaines continues at a fast pace as the grower Champagne movement comfortably settles into its second generation. Many of the grandes marques, Champagne’s historic high-end houses, have quietly expanded their ranges, with an assortment of single-parcel and/or late-release ultra tête de cuvée bottlings that did not exist just a few years ago. All of that means consumers have never had more choice – at all ends of the quality and style spectrum – than they do today.
Cellar Favorite: 2002 Taittinger Comtes de Champagne
France: Champagne, cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites
, Nov 2017
Several recent bottles of Taittinger’s 2002 Comtes de Champagne have been nothing less than stellar. In a vintage in which many Champagnes show the raciness and flamboyance of very ripe Chardonnay, the 2002 Comtes remains fresh, vibrant and nuanced.
Dom Pérignon in Three Acts
France: Champagne, Verticals & Retrospectives, featured
, Nov 2017
One of the most fascinating aspects of Champagne is its ability to transform over time. This remarkable tasting provided a truly once in a lifetime opportunity to compare the three principal releases of Dom Pérignon across a number of iconic vintages of the 1960s and 1970s.
Jacques Selosse: A Study of Substance
France: Champagne, featured
, Oct 2017
Anselme Selosse is one of the pivotal figures in the modern history of Champagne. Selosse’s meticulous attention to detail in the vineyards and bold wines inspired a whole generation of younger growers, some of whom spent time working alongside him, and others who were captivated by a vision of Champagne as a wine that is, first and foremost, born in the vineyard. This recent tasting provided a remarkable opportunity to check in on a number of disgorgements of the flagship Substance going back to the early days.
Cellar Favorite: 1964 Dom Pérignon - Original Release
France: Champagne, Cellar Favorites, featured
, Oct 2017
Wine lovers often debate which is the greatest vintage of the 1960s in Champagne. To be sure, it is a magical decade, with several candidates for that honor. Perhaps even more importantly though, the 1960s mark a sort of transition into modern times in Champagne.