Dry, dry, dry. This is how Alsace growers remember the 2023 vintage. Sandy, gravelly sites on the plain suffered and stony slopes struggled, but sites with more water-retentive soils fared much better. In 2023, the Rieslings have concentration, moderate alcohol, ripe acidity and great aging potential. The stylistic spectrum of Pinot Gris and Gewurztraminer is as broad and diverse as ever, while Pinot Noir is getting finer and finer.

Alsace Pinot Noir continues to show its mettle. Most of the wines I tasted for this report are from the warm 2022 vintage, so sumptuous black cherry flavors abound, but happily free from the sins of over-oaking and over-extraction. The limestone-based wines are the clear winners. While the entry-level reds provide immense fresh-faced joy with their juiciness, the top wines need not shy away from the global limelight. The 2021 Pinot Noirs are trickier, but the best come with seductive slenderness and red-fruited brightness.

For the most part, vintage 2022 in Alsace was both warm and dry. The region was lucky to escape the extreme heat and drought that plagued much of the rest of France. Rain arrived, sometimes “in extremis,” and saved the crop from losses that could have been worse. Wineries harvested concentrated, luminous Riesling despite some hail, and producers made Pinot Gris and Gewurztraminer in a range of styles, resulting in plush wines. Even Sylvaners exhibit uncommon fruitiness. Beyond vineyards and cellars, ongoing consolidation within Alsace’s already polarized wine industry is of increasing concern to independent growers. The latter value quality over quantity while the drive for quantity by ever bigger behemoths explains the sea of vineyards across the plains along the autoroute.

Jean-Frédéric Hugel paid a brief visit to London to launch a brace of late-release Rieslings. One from the 2014 vintage, from their top site Grand Cru Schoenenbourg. While the 2015 has already been released, this is the first vintage in which Hugel finally uses the grand cru designation rather than their Alsatian dialect term Grossi Laüe.

At long last, Alsace Pinot Noirs are coming to the fore. Hectares under vine are steadily increasing, and so is grower expertise. Some producers are veterans in teasing complex, elegant and expressive wines from this much-loved grape variety. Others are just starting. Pinot Noir is one of the most exciting developments in Alsace, and there are other varietal experiments, too.

Two fundamentally different vintages, the hot 2020 and the problematic 2021, form the basis of my first Alsace report for Vinous. It turns out that the best producers came up with some stunning wines – negotiating and countering the heat in 2020 and sorting, sorting, sorting to produce exceptional wines with a wonderful acidic backbone in 2021, a year beset by mildew.

I was thrilled to open this eclectic collection of wines from my cellar during this year’s Inspire Napa Valley dinner at Staglin. It’s a rare treat to take a break from the hectic pace of tasting wines for review and actually drink a few things for pleasure.

Last November 2019 BC (Before COVID-19), Jean Trimbach himself proffered a fabulous bottle of 1989 Clos Ste. Hune Vendanges Tardives Hors Choix at a private La Paulée in Beaune.

Restaurant Koehler – Auberge du Cheval Blanc, in the pretty Alsace town of Westhalten, strives for excellence but falls down on details that it must correct if it hopes to become a must-stop on any sybarite’s journey.

Alsace, one of the most blessed winegrowing regions in the world, is in the midst of a generational change. Young growers are bringing a fresh mindset to the region’s viticulture and winemaking, its many outstanding wine grapes and its first-rate terroirs.

Alsace has always produced some of the world’s greatest white wines. The good news is that it ismaking some increasingly exciting red wines, most of them from Pinot Noir, although recently some wineries have also planted small plots of Syrah and even St. Laurent as well. In nearby Luxembourg a number of privately owned domaines are also making outstanding wines too, hence their inclusion in this article.

It’s 150 years and counting at l’Auberge de l’Ill, one of the world’s best restaurants, and also a world-class spa and hotel. My latest visit shows l’Auberge de l’Ill hasn’t missed a step – an epicurean temple that continues to regale food and wine lovers from all over the world.

JY’s is without a doubt one of Alsace’s three best restaurants, offering a combination of precise, complex dishes, a good wine list, professional service and a romantic, refined location along the river Lauch in Colmar’s pretty Little Venice district.

Albert Mann is admired for wines of remarkable purity and precision. Arguably most famous for their Riesling Schlossberg and Pinot Noir bottlings, the estate’s Gewurztraminer Furstentum is just as outstanding, showcasing how well this variety can age in Alsace.

In Alsace, a new generation of young winemakers is starting to take over the roles of their parents at a number of family domaines. The result is a bevy of fresh, exciting wines that are well worth exploring.

The 2016 and 2015 vintages in Alsace are diametric opposites: fresh and crisp in 2016, richer and more opulent in 2015. Pinot varieties excelled in ‘16, while it was mostly Gewürztraminer that stole the show in ‘15.

Louis Sipp is located in the heart of Ribeauvillé, one of Alsace’s most famous and prettiest towns. Sipp has always been one of the best, if not the best producer, of Kirchberg de Ribeauvillé Riesling. A recent vertical back to 1971 provided a great opportunity to taste a number of wines from this famed Grand Cru site.

Wistubs are equivalents of modern day bistros but that harken back to past times, offering home style food in rural, country settings. Wistub du Sommelier, one of the finest in Alsace and a favorite dining hangout of local vignerons and wine lovers, rarely disappoints.

Although the 2014 and 2015 vintages posed distinct challenges for growers and winemakers alike, the former year produced some sleek, delicious, brisk whites (especially Rieslings) while the latter vintage yielded many rich, powerful examples, including some of the best Gewürztraminers in decades.

Domaine Weinbach is arguably one of the world’s greatest wine estates. Over the years, the Faller family has produced myriad fantastic wines that are sought by wine lovers and collectors everywhere. That consistent track record has shed light on Alsace’s many delicious, age-worthy and memorable white wines. Quality is so high across the board at Weinbach that it is hard to choose a single “best” wine as the subject of a vertical tasting.

This remarkable vertical tasting of Trimbach’s flagship Riesling Clos Ste. Hune encompassed a number of reference-point, older vintages that are now virtually impossible to find along with the soon-to-be-released 2010. Clos Ste. Hune has a rare ability to transmit the essence of place and vintage while acquiring considerable complexity in bottle, all of which make make it one of the most distinctive wines in the world. I tasted these wines at a seminar hosted by Pierre Trimbach last year at the Villa d’Este Wine Symposium.

While Zind-Humbrecht’s Rieslings and Gewürztraminers from the estate’s prime Clos Saint Urbain parcel within the Grand Cru Rangen frequently number among Alsace’s top bottlings, it is their Pinot Gris that reaches the greatest heights of winedom. In my view, the family’s Pinot Gris Rangen de Thann Clos Saint Urbain is the world’s greatest dry Pinot Gris.

One reason I never miss a chance to visit Jean Dirler and his family is that the Dirler-Cadé estate in Bergholtz makes outstanding wines from several different Alsace varieties. Its Sylvaner, a grape often treated as an afterthought in Alsatian wine-production circles, is especially noteworthy. I do not feel that I am exaggerating when I describe it as a world-class wine, and the fact that it ages extremely well is an added bonus.

Etienne Hugel, the highly admired commercial director for Famille Hugel, died on April 8, at just 57. An ambassador of his family’s wines, as well as those of Alsace, Hugel left a lasting impression on all those he met throughout his travels around the world. He will be deeply missed.

Alsace is home to the best Gewürztraminers on the planet, along with Rieslings and Pinot Gris that are among the finest anywhere. All three varieties also produce what are some of the world's most profound late-harvest sweet wines. Alsace's 2014 vintage is not going to be remembered as particularly memorable, but the more serious 2013 wines, most of which are bottled and released later, have turned out nicely.