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Argentina: Exploring the Outer Reaches

In a country as vast as Argentina, vines grow in the most unexpected places. This report explores some of the lesser-known regions where wine is made, along with a look at classic areas such as the southern and northern valleys. These 250 wines tell the story of a different landscape—and a different people.

Going Underground: Clos Fourtet 1989-2019

Clos Fourtet is one of the most picturesque and ideally located châteaux in Saint-Émilion, blessed with some of the finest terroir on the limestone plateau. Under Mathieu Cuvelier, Clos Fourtet has realised its potential and is now regarded amongst the appellation’s best wines. The heart of this piece is an interview with Cuvelier following a vertical tasting of recent vintages, detailing specifics of the vineyard and winemaking approaches.

Cellar Favorite: 2022 António Madeira Branco Vinhas Velhas

On a recent return to Solar dos Presuntos, Lisbon’s go-to restaurant for any wine-lover, I ordered Madeira’s 2022 Branco Vinhas Velhas. Our sommelier grinned, knowing the treat in store. I was blown away.

Vinous Table: Drouant, Paris, France

Drouant offers a menu of traditional brasserie fare, presented in a style that is upscale but not at all fussy. The wine selection is to die for.

Abruzzo Weathers the Storm: Surviving the 2023 and 2024 Vintages

Being a winemaker in Abruzzo these days is a challenge. While the area undergoes massive changes to reform its DOC, reorganize its subregions, keep bottling of Montepulciano within the region and work out a system to add place names to its labels, Abruzzo has also endured two of the most difficult vintages imaginable. Somehow, the best winemakers persevere and continue to keep spirits high.

Piedmont Odds and Ends

This small update covers a selection of wines that have come across my desk in between major reports. Many of the wines are from Roero, a small appellation that lies across the Tanaro River from Barbaresco. Arneis and Nebbiolo can be especially fine here.

Popping Corks: The Second Vinous Sekt Report

The renaissance of German and Austrian Sekt continues apace. After last year’s paean to the revival of bottle-fermented Sekt in both countries, this is the second report on all things German-speaking and bottle-fermented. While the holy trinity of sparkling varieties, namely Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier, shines in both countries, we will also take a closer look at Rieslingsekt.

Cellar Favorite: 2012 Domaine Tempier Bandol Cuvée Classique

Bandol is a gem of a wine region with a treasure trove of great wines and producers, and the most renowned of all is Domaine Tempier. During a recent dinner in London, I spotted a bottle of 2012 Bandol Cuvée Classique on the wine list. It was a no-brainer.

Vinous Guides: Best Italian Wine Lists in New York City

With Vinous Icons: Italy fast approaching, we are looking forward to welcoming guests from around the world for a memorable weekend of lunches, dinners, seminars and tastings. To help attendees get the most out of the weekend, we’ve put together a list of our favorite spots where wine lovers can enjoy the full breadth of Italian wine. Some of the restaurants on this list have Italy-focused programs, while others offer wines from around the world. We hope this selection is useful for out-of-towners as well as readers who are well-versed in New York City’s vibrant dining scene.

Vinous Table: Belcanto, Lisbon, Portugal

If you want to taste high-level cuisine without pretentiousness, then Belcanto comes highly recommended. Generally regarded as Lisbon’s finest restaurant, Belcanto invites the diner on a gustatory journey with Portuguese celebrity chef José Avillez.

Event Horizon: Bordeaux 2024 Primeur

Twenty-four was a tough fight for Bordeaux winemakers, but one that some were prepared for. While there are unavoidable shortcomings in the wines, some châteaux succeeded where they would have once failed. This report will not tell you whether to buy the wines or not, since prices are only just being released. But it will tell you exactly what I think about the quality of the unfinished barrel samples.

2024 Bordeaux En Primeur: The Razor’s Edge

It’s no secret that Bordeaux endured a challenging growing season in 2024. Despite the ups and downs of a year that featured heavy rainfall and constant disease pressure, among other events, the most skilled winemakers found a way to make gorgeous wines. The 2024s are all over the place in terms of quality and style, so readers will have to be selective. Within that context, the very best wines have a lot to offer.

Cellar Favorite: 2015 Marcel Lapierre Morgon Cuvée Marcel Lapierre

During my recent trip to Beaujolais, I was treated to a smattering of mature bottles that proved once again how exquisitely Gamay can age. None more so than this delectable ten-year-old Morgon popped open during my visit to one of Beaujolais’ most renowned producers, Marcel Lapierre.

Vinous Table: Henry’s End, Brooklyn, New York

The phrase "neighbourhood institution" connotes a restaurant where passionate, talented chefs with attention to detail have sustained it through the years, a restaurant that stands as a beacon of quality. Henry's End might have opened over half a century ago, but standards remain high and people still love it.

Northern Mendoza: Velvet Comes Back into Fashion

Not so long ago, Argentine reds were turning heads for their mixture of rich flavors and velvety textures. The heartland of that velvet era was Luján de Cuyo. In this new stage of development, the velvet has returned, only this time accompanied by more modern wine styles. From Luján to Primera Zona and the East, this report focuses on over 300 superb sun-kissed wines from the north of Mendoza.

Grape Expectations: Burgundy 1978 Retrospective

It was a privilege to attend this 1978 horizontal—however, there is always a risk when broaching old bottles, especially Pinot Noir from an era besmirched by swings in quality. Fortunately, scattered among the disappointments is a clutch of bottles that sparkle like rubies in the sand.

McLaren Vale: Pushing the Refinement Envelope

There are few better places in Australia to discover cutting-edge wines than McLaren Vale. Formerly a key home for large-scale commercial winemaking, McLaren Vale has transformed into a base for artisanal, terroir-driven winemakers with an increasing focus on single-vineyard wines of distinction. The 2022 vintage in particular offers insights into an exciting future.

Cellar Favorite: 1979 Veuve Clicquot Vintage Rosé

The 1979 is a drop-dead gorgeous beauty. At 45 years of age, the 1979 remains timeless, a testament to how well Champagne can age.

Vinous Table: Restaurant La Grande Georgette, Champagne, France

I am always on the hunt for new places to eat in Champagne. Located in the Cazerne Chanzy Hotel & Spa, literally in front of the Reims Cathedral, La Grande Georgette is a welcome addition to my personal list of favorites.

Buy Some, Try Some: Beaujolais 2022-2024

At a point when savvy wine consumers are seeking value for their money, there has never been a better time to get into Beaujolais. This report takes a look at new releases, mainly from the 2023 vintage, the best of which demonstrate the underestimated heights these wines can reach.

Pinball Number Count: Bouchard Père 1923-2013

The second edition of Bouchard Père & Fils’ time travels through their enviably deep library comprised a number of vintages ending in the number “three,” all served blind at the domaine’s headquarters in Beaune. This tasting revealed a clutch of remarkable bottles from forgotten vintages.

English Still Wine: Much Promise, Much Afoot

Though eclipsed by the success of English sparkling wine, English still wine has come a long way from the meagre image of yesteryear. What has happened in the past decade is remarkable: Climate change, increased growing expertise and the exploration of new regions have made all the difference. With a track record of excelling in cool and marginal climes, Chardonnay and Pinot Noir are undoubtedly the stars. These two chameleons shine on this Sceptred Isle. Much is afoot.

Cellar Favorite: 2006 & 2003 Vilmart Coeur de Cuvée

Vilmart’s Coeur de Cuvée is one of the most consistently outstanding wines in Champagne because of how well it shows in both strong and challenging years. The 2006 and 2003 are peaking today, making them fine choices for readers who enjoy mature Champagne.

Vinous Table: Le Petit Sommelier de Paris, Paris, France

Le Petit Sommelier de Paris specializes in French comfort food favorites. Proprietor Pierre Vila Palleja offers classic bistro fare along with one of the most interesting lists in Paris.

The Brutal Beauty of Sardinia: The 2022 and 2023 Vintages

Sardinia continues to thrive despite a climate that is searingly hot and incredibly dry. Navigating the region isn’t easy, as the island can seem like a continent due to its size, but the effort is certainly rewarding. Between its compelling native varieties, diverse terroir and high concentration of skilled winemakers, Sardinia is positioned for greatness.
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