Cellar Favorite: 1990 Soldera – Case Basse Brunello di Montalcino
cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites, Italy: Tuscany
, Feb 2020
Soldera’s 1990 Brunello di Montalcino doesn’t quite have the visceral power and lushness of his Riserva, but you know what? It comes pretty close.
Cellar Favorite: 1959 Marqués de Murrieta Castillo Ygay Gran Reserva Especial Rioja
Spain, cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites
, Feb 2020
Rioja has always held a special place in my heart. I discovered pretty early on that l liked reds with bottle age, but I could hardly afford any of the heavy hitters of that time. Any time I needed a wine with a bit of age for a special occasion, it was always Rioja.
Cellar Favorite: 1949 Château Figeac
France: Bordeaux, cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites
, Feb 2020
My admiration for recent vintages of Château Figeac is clear for everyone to read. Winemaker Frédéric Faye has done a fantastic job in recent years.
Cellar Favorite: 1945 Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé Musigny Vieilles Vignes Grand Cru
cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites, France: Burgundy
, Feb 2020
I LOVE HALF-BOTTLES! Phew, it feels good to come clean. I am well aware how everyone bangs on about magnums as the optimal format for maturing wine. Received wisdom is that half-bottles cannot age. Rubbish! Go and taste a few.
Cellar Favorite: 1924 Château Filhot
France: Bordeaux, cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites
, Jan 2020
Recently I encountered a bottle of 1924 Filhot, the oldest example that I have tasted, and it proved that Filhot can create a wonderful, life-affirming, vibrant and downright delicious Sauternes that effortlessly defies time.
Cellar Favorite: 1957 Domaine Ramonet Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru
cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites, France: Burgundy
, Jan 2020
Over the last two decades I have visited practically all the major domaines in the Côte d’Or. There is one glaring and unforgivable omission: Ramonet.
Cellar Favorite: 2014 Domaine Taupenot-Merme Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru
cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites, France: Burgundy
, Jan 2020
I had tasted many vintages from barrel but never the finished article until a friend from the Far East invited me to choose any bottle from the enormous wine list at Maison de Colombier in Beaune. I knew instantly which one I wanted: the 2014 Clos des Lambrays from Taupenot-Merme. And it had only taken me 20 years!
Cellar Favorite: 1966 Dow’s Vintage Port
Portugal, cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites
, Jan 2020
Nineteen sixty-six has long been an undervalued year for Port, especially given the across-the-board quality of the wines, many of which can stand toe-to-toe with their 1963 siblings.
Cellar Favorite: 1978 & 1990 Château de Beaucastel Châteauneuf-du-Pape
cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites, France: Rhône & Beaujolais
, Dec 2019
I must confess a penchant for mature Châteauneuf-du-Pape, though sadly I do not have many opportunities to drink it. It’s almost more difficult to track down ancient bottles of Rhône than of Burgundy.
Cellar Favorite: 1939 & 1950 Cheval Blanc
France: Bordeaux, cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites
, Dec 2019
There is always a frisson of excitement in coming eyeball to eyeball with a prewar bottle of Bordeaux, especially one from a vintage dismissed and written out of history.