Cellar Favorite: 1994 Domaine Ponsot Morey-Saint-Denis Clos des Monts Luisants Blanc 1er Cru
cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites, France: Burgundy
, Nov 2019
It is a pity that Aligoté must reside in the shadow of Chardonnay. Too often it is dismissed, not only by consumers, but winemakers themselves since many “forget” to show me their Bourgogne Aligoté during cellar visits. Thankfully in recent years there has been a reappraisal of Aligoté spearheaded by Marsannay-based Sylvain Pataille and the grape is finally receiving due respect.
Cellar Favorite: 1990 Château Latour
cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites, France: Bordeaux
, Nov 2019
Tasting the 1990 Latour is like running into a long-lost friend. Still dark, deep and spectacularly flamboyant, the 1990 possesses remarkable textural richness from the very first taste.
Cellar Favorite: 1994 Kanonkop Wine Estate Paul Sauer
South Africa, cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites
, Oct 2019
Kanonkop’s “Paul Sauer” constantly shows that world-class Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot blends are well within grasp and, moreover, proves how supremely well they age.
Cellar Favorite: 1975 Egon Müller Riesling Scharzhofberger Trockenbeerenauslese
germany: Mosel, cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites
, Oct 2019
Though the bottle is still on the other side of the room on its way to the dining table, I instantly register that it is a) exceedingly rare and extraordinarily expensive and b) already open for serving. The thought that goes through my head is: “Is that really what I think it is?”
Cellar Favorite: 1971 Domaine Robert Arnoux Vosne-Romanée Les Suchots 1er Cru
cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites, France: Burgundy
, Oct 2019
I had never tasted a bottle from the era of Charles’s grandfather, Robert Arnoux, whose passing in 1995 led to his son-in-law taking over. But this bottle revealed a connection between Robert Arnoux and Charles Lachaux’s approach to winemaking.
Cellar Favorite: Marqués de Riscal Gran Reserva 1952-2015
Spain, cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites
, Oct 2019
It was a pleasure to take a break during a period of alternating between Bordeaux and Burgundy and attend a tasting of one of my favorite Rioja producers: Marqués de Riscal.
Cellar Favorites: 1970 Giacomo Conterno Barolo & Barolo Riserva Monfortino
cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites, Piedmont, Italy: Piedmont
, Sep 2019
Giacomo Conterno’s 1970 Barolo Riserva Monfortino is one of my very favorite wines. When Il Professore told me he might bring a bottle to dinner, I didn’t think he actually would, much less show up with a bottle of the 1970 Barolo also in tow. But, so he did!
Cellar Favorite: 1985 Dunn Cabernet Sauvignon Howell Mountain
United States: California, cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites
, Sep 2019
This extraordinary bottle of Randy Dunn’s 1985 Cabernet Sauvignon Howell Mountain brought back so many memories. Over the years, one of the ways I have learned about wine is doing a full-immersion of sorts with certain benchmark producers where I focus on a single estate for a few months or years, really trying to understand the essence of each property.
Cellar Favorite: 1947 Carbonnieux Blanc
cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites, France: Bordeaux
, Sep 2019
Mature white Bordeaux is rarely discussed and, to be honest, rarely tasted. In my own experience, lunches or dinners commencing with a venerable Bordeaux Blanc are as regular as Halley’s comet. That’s a pity, because whenever they do form the opening act, they offer pertinent reminders of their quality.
Cellar Favorite: 2009 Le Macchiole Paleo Rosso
cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites, Italy: Tuscany
, Sep 2019
I had a chance to taste a number of reference point 2009s during my recent tour of Bolgheri. Le Macchiole’s 2009 Cabernet Franc Paleo Rosso was one of the most impressive.