Cellar Favorite: 1931 d’Yquem
France: Bordeaux, cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites
, Mar 2020
Defying all the odds, this Sauternes provided much pleasure to a group of wine lovers, a fitting finale to a memorable Burgundy dinner. Not a success? I beg to differ.
Cellar Favorite: 1937 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti La Tâche Grand Cru
cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites, France: Burgundy
, Mar 2020
Last November I met with a couple of friends and Burgundy mavens with the sole intention of tasting one of the last bottles from the Moingeon family cellar. The rather shabby-looking bottle was bereft of a label and covered in a thin film of dust, and there was no branding on the cork.
Cellar Favorite: 1933 Domaine René Engel Grands-Echézeaux Grand Cru
cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites, France: Burgundy
, Mar 2020
Sometimes you encounter a bottle so old and rare that your immediate reaction is one of knowing that you will never taste it again. This bottle came from a renowned private cellar and was poured blind by a generous friend at Bistro de l’Hôtel.
Cellar Favorite: 2017 Hatzidakis Winery Cuvée No. 15 Assyrtiko
cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites, Greece
, Mar 2020
Am I an expert in Greek wine? Regrettably, I am not. But I do know when I’m face to face with a wine that exudes brilliance. This bottle was kindly opened during a long-overdue visit to The Arches, the legendary restaurant/wine bar in Swiss Cottage, London.
Cellar Favorite: 2009 Pepe Raventós Mas del Serral
cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites, Spain
, Mar 2020
I met winemaker Pepe Raventós at a dinner for artisan Spanish winemakers at Noble Rot that preceded the Viñateros tasting this past February. We never met during my short tenure as reviewer, however it was his wines alongside those of Gramona, that blew apart my preconceptions of what Cava can achieve.
Cellar Favorite: 1990 Soldera – Case Basse Brunello di Montalcino
cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites, Italy: Tuscany
, Feb 2020
Soldera’s 1990 Brunello di Montalcino doesn’t quite have the visceral power and lushness of his Riserva, but you know what? It comes pretty close.
Cellar Favorite: 1959 Marqués de Murrieta Castillo Ygay Gran Reserva Especial Rioja
cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites, Spain
, Feb 2020
Rioja has always held a special place in my heart. I discovered pretty early on that l liked reds with bottle age, but I could hardly afford any of the heavy hitters of that time. Any time I needed a wine with a bit of age for a special occasion, it was always Rioja.
Cellar Favorite: 1949 Château Figeac
France: Bordeaux, cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites
, Feb 2020
My admiration for recent vintages of Château Figeac is clear for everyone to read. Winemaker Frédéric Faye has done a fantastic job in recent years.
Cellar Favorite: 1945 Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé Musigny Vieilles Vignes Grand Cru
cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites, France: Burgundy
, Feb 2020
I LOVE HALF-BOTTLES! Phew, it feels good to come clean. I am well aware how everyone bangs on about magnums as the optimal format for maturing wine. Received wisdom is that half-bottles cannot age. Rubbish! Go and taste a few.
Cellar Favorite: 1924 Château Filhot
France: Bordeaux, cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites
, Jan 2020
Recently I encountered a bottle of 1924 Filhot, the oldest example that I have tasted, and it proved that Filhot can create a wonderful, life-affirming, vibrant and downright delicious Sauternes that effortlessly defies time.